I'm presenting a lot of potentially useful information below from training to medical to older dogs to feeding to ... well I tend to ramble so I've used bold headers so you can scan faster or use a control F search feature on your keyboard to find a word.
if you have a question you not see on our FAQ page please do ask as you are probably not the only one and I will research and address it for you
How to Identify a Puppy Scam: 5 Warning Signs
With thousands of puppy scams reported over the course of the COVID-19 pandemic, the most common warning signs among puppy-related scams.
With thousands of puppy scams reported over the course of the COVID-19 pandemic, the most common warning signs among puppy-related scams.
- The seller claims that you will not be able to see the puppy in person before adoption and/or is unable to provide you with multiple pictures/videos of the puppy up for adoption.
- The seller asks for payment up front through Western Union, MoneyGram, a digital money app like Zelle or Cash App, or via a gift card.
- The seller or a third party asks for payment to cover additional items such as a climate-controlled crate for shipping, vaccinations, or transportation insurance/life insurance. In many cases, fraudulent emails will claim the shipping costs/crate rental fees will be refunded upon the puppy’s delivery. However, they never are.
- The breeder’s website offers no information about the sire or dam of the litter and/or the breeder is unable / unwilling to provide proof of health records or registration
- In the case of purebred breeds, the puppy in question is being offered at a significantly steep discount when compared with the average price for a puppy of its breed.
My Christmas warnings - much of which should be given consideration year round:
remember Christmas presents under the that may have NO-NO's in the - I.E. chocolates....
Chocolate
Pure baking chocolate is most toxic, while milk chocolate requires a higher quantity to cause harm. A 20-pound dog can be poisoned after consuming about two ounces of baking chocolate, but it would take nearly 20 ounces of milk chocolate to cause harm. Ingestion of cacao bean mulch can also be toxic.
Signs include excitement or hyperactivity, tremors, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, abnormal heart rate/rhythm, drunken gait, hypothermia, and coma.
Non-toxic doses of chocolate may still cause some gastrointestinal upset due to the fat content and acidity.
If your dog has ingested a toxic dose, your vet may induce vomiting or pump the stomach (gastric lavage). Treatment usually includes the administration of activated charcoal and aggressive supportive care with fluid therapy and medications.
tinsel and glass ornaments
- common sense here things that can have sharp parts when broken and or swallowed.
Common Holiday and Christmas Plants that are Dangerous to Dogs
Poinsettias are a mildly toxic plant and should certainly be used with caution, but the dangers are hardly ever serious or fatal. The milky white sap found in poinsettias contains chemicals similar to those in detergents and when large quantities are ingested, mild signs of vomiting, drooling, or sometimes diarrhea may be seen. Skin irritation can occur when in contact with the milky white sap as well. Due to the low level of toxicity seen with poinsettia ingestion, you are safe to use them in your house with caution.
Peace lily Calla lily Lily of the Valley
In cats, Lilium and Hemerocallis genera lilies are the most dangerous. Eating even a small amount of the plant will have a severe impact on a cat's system, causing severe symptoms such as gastrointestinal issues, arrhythmia and convulsions.
Daffodils are also toxic to both dogs and cats. The bulbs are the most toxic; however, even a few bites of the flower can cause kidney failure and even death in cats.
Amaryllis (Belladonna)
The beauty of the flowering Amaryllis is only matched by its toxicity. The Amaryllis contains lycorine and other noxious substances, which is most concentrated in the bulb of the plant. This is the same toxin that is present in daffodil bulbs. symptoms include salivation, gastrointestinal abnormalities (vomiting, diarrhea, decreased appetite and abdominal pain), lethargy and tremors in both cats and dogs.
The bulb of the plant is reputed to be even more dangerous than the flowers and stalk.
Amaryllis contains a toxin called lycorine, Eating bulb tissue (or a very large amount of leaf or flower tissue) can cause stomach upset, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, and convulsions.
The potentially harmful effects of Amaryllis are reflected in an alternate name for one species of the plant, which is belladonna lily. Belladonna is another name for the deadly nightshade plant, which is very poisonous.
The Amaryllis also goes by other names, including Belladonna, Saint Joseph Lily, Cape Belladonna and Naked Lady.
English Ivy
Handling English ivy can cause severe contact dermatitis, or skin inflammation, which may be accompanied by blisters. This is the most dangerous aspect of the plant for most people.
Ivy is poisonous when taken internally, although a large amount of plant material needs to be eaten to cause symptoms. These symptoms can be serious and include a burning sensation in the digestive tract, breathing difficulty, gastrointestinal problems, delirium, hallucinations, and seizures.
Yew
Yew contains chemicals called taxines which quickly cause an irregular heartbeat after being eaten. The alteration in the heart rate can be life-threatening. Yew poisoning can also cause a headache, dizziness, gastrointestinal problems, breathing difficulties, trembling, convulsions, dilated pupils, and a coma.
Coleus
Coleus is non-toxic to humans but is toxic to pets. It can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats, which may occasionally be bloody. In a home without pets, however, coleus is a beautiful plant to display indoors at Christmas and during the rest of the year either indoors or outdoors.
Cyclamen
Cyclamen poisoning may cause severe vomiting and diarrhea accompanied by significant fluid loss from the body. It may also cause heart rhythm abnormalities and seizures. The Department of Horticultural Science at North Carolina State University considers cyclamen to be "toxic only if large quantities eaten". the bulb is the part of concern and is bitter, thus between being buried in soil and tasting bad may be less of a concern but worthy of mentioning since some dogs get into anything. not that any if mine would ever do that.... yea... right............
Christmas rose
The Christmas rose or Helleborus niger, is another poisonous plant whose toxicity depends on the amount that's eaten. Eating the plant can result in a burning sensation in the mouth and throat, abdominal cramps, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, depression, and a slow heartbeat.
Jerusalem cherry
The plant is also known as the winter cherry and the Christmas cherry.
The fruits of the Jerusalem cherry are sometimes confused with cherry tomatoes. This is a serious mistake, since Solanum pseudocapsicum is poisonous. The plant contains a toxin called solanocapsine. The leaves and unripe fruit contain the highest concentration of the toxin.
The assessments of the Jerusalem cherry's danger vary widely and range all the way from "mildly poisonous" to "deadly". It seems like a good idea for families with young children or pets to avoid this plant and err on the side of safety. Symptoms of poisoning include headache, stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, drowsiness, and slow breathing.
Autumn Crocus
The Autumn Crocus, also known as the Meadow Saffron
The Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) is a flower that physically resembles a true Crocus plant, but is actually a lily. Like other lilies in the Colchicum family, it contains a poison called colchicine for which there is no known antidote. Ingestion of this plant, also known as the Meadow Saffron or naked lady, can cause severe gastrointestinal distress, damage to multiple internal organs, and without treatment will usually lead to death.
Holly – the berry and leaf Mistletoe
Mistletoe contains multiple substances that are toxic to both dogs and cats, including toxalbumin and pharatoxin viscumin (lectins, phoratoxins). It’s well-known for causing severe intestinal upset as well as a sudden and severe drop in blood pressure, breathing problems and even hallucinations (showing up as unusual behavior).
If a large enough amount of these plants are ingested, seizures and death may follow.
The leaves and berries of holly and mistletoe plants, even the dried plants, should be kept well out of your pet's reach, or better yet, kept out of the home altogether.
The Christmas Tree itself
There are dangers beyond lights and ornaments.
Firs, spruce, pine trees, and cedars are the trees that are most often used as Christmas trees and as greenery for decorations.
The oils produced by fir trees can be irritating to a pet's mouth and stomach. The tree needles, meanwhile, may cause gastrointestinal irritation, obstruction and punctures.
the water used for Christmas trees can be noxious. Bacteria, molds and fertilizers can cause your pet to become extremely sick with only a few laps of water. Keep the water covered and blocked off to prevent pets from accessing it.
Sago palm
All Cycad plants, including sago palm, are extremely poisonous.
Although many pets may find cycad plants very palatable and pleasing to chew on, all parts of this plant are highly toxic: leaves, trunk, roots, and seeds. The newly sprouting leaves and the reddish seeds are particularly poisonous. Ingesting even one seed can kill a dog.
The primary toxic agent of the sago palm and other cycads is called cycasin. It is both a neurotoxic glycoside (a nerve-poisoning plant sugar) and a carcinogen. The mortality rate of pets that have ingested Sago plant is high - up to 75%.
Dieffenbachia
(Dumb Cane) -- aka; palm lily, cornstalk plant, corn plant, ribbon plant, dragon tree, Madagascar dragon tree, money tree, lucky bamboo With its broad variegated leaves, the dieffenbachia is often recommended as an ideal houseplant for natural air purification.
But if you choose to have one in your home, be sure it's well out of your dog's reach. When eaten, it not only burns the mouth and throat but causes the esophagus to swell, potentially blocking the dog's airway.
References
A toxic plant database from North Carolina State University
https://happytailservet.com/the-ultimate-list-of-toxic-plants-for-dogs/
***********
ASPCA Animal Poison-Control Center provides a database of common pet poisons and is available for telephone consultations (1-888-426-4435) in case of a poisoning emergency. You may be charged a fee for the consultation.
remember Christmas presents under the that may have NO-NO's in the - I.E. chocolates....
Chocolate
Pure baking chocolate is most toxic, while milk chocolate requires a higher quantity to cause harm. A 20-pound dog can be poisoned after consuming about two ounces of baking chocolate, but it would take nearly 20 ounces of milk chocolate to cause harm. Ingestion of cacao bean mulch can also be toxic.
Signs include excitement or hyperactivity, tremors, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, abnormal heart rate/rhythm, drunken gait, hypothermia, and coma.
Non-toxic doses of chocolate may still cause some gastrointestinal upset due to the fat content and acidity.
If your dog has ingested a toxic dose, your vet may induce vomiting or pump the stomach (gastric lavage). Treatment usually includes the administration of activated charcoal and aggressive supportive care with fluid therapy and medications.
tinsel and glass ornaments
- common sense here things that can have sharp parts when broken and or swallowed.
Common Holiday and Christmas Plants that are Dangerous to Dogs
Poinsettias are a mildly toxic plant and should certainly be used with caution, but the dangers are hardly ever serious or fatal. The milky white sap found in poinsettias contains chemicals similar to those in detergents and when large quantities are ingested, mild signs of vomiting, drooling, or sometimes diarrhea may be seen. Skin irritation can occur when in contact with the milky white sap as well. Due to the low level of toxicity seen with poinsettia ingestion, you are safe to use them in your house with caution.
Peace lily Calla lily Lily of the Valley
In cats, Lilium and Hemerocallis genera lilies are the most dangerous. Eating even a small amount of the plant will have a severe impact on a cat's system, causing severe symptoms such as gastrointestinal issues, arrhythmia and convulsions.
Daffodils are also toxic to both dogs and cats. The bulbs are the most toxic; however, even a few bites of the flower can cause kidney failure and even death in cats.
Amaryllis (Belladonna)
The beauty of the flowering Amaryllis is only matched by its toxicity. The Amaryllis contains lycorine and other noxious substances, which is most concentrated in the bulb of the plant. This is the same toxin that is present in daffodil bulbs. symptoms include salivation, gastrointestinal abnormalities (vomiting, diarrhea, decreased appetite and abdominal pain), lethargy and tremors in both cats and dogs.
The bulb of the plant is reputed to be even more dangerous than the flowers and stalk.
Amaryllis contains a toxin called lycorine, Eating bulb tissue (or a very large amount of leaf or flower tissue) can cause stomach upset, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, and convulsions.
The potentially harmful effects of Amaryllis are reflected in an alternate name for one species of the plant, which is belladonna lily. Belladonna is another name for the deadly nightshade plant, which is very poisonous.
The Amaryllis also goes by other names, including Belladonna, Saint Joseph Lily, Cape Belladonna and Naked Lady.
English Ivy
Handling English ivy can cause severe contact dermatitis, or skin inflammation, which may be accompanied by blisters. This is the most dangerous aspect of the plant for most people.
Ivy is poisonous when taken internally, although a large amount of plant material needs to be eaten to cause symptoms. These symptoms can be serious and include a burning sensation in the digestive tract, breathing difficulty, gastrointestinal problems, delirium, hallucinations, and seizures.
Yew
Yew contains chemicals called taxines which quickly cause an irregular heartbeat after being eaten. The alteration in the heart rate can be life-threatening. Yew poisoning can also cause a headache, dizziness, gastrointestinal problems, breathing difficulties, trembling, convulsions, dilated pupils, and a coma.
Coleus
Coleus is non-toxic to humans but is toxic to pets. It can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats, which may occasionally be bloody. In a home without pets, however, coleus is a beautiful plant to display indoors at Christmas and during the rest of the year either indoors or outdoors.
Cyclamen
Cyclamen poisoning may cause severe vomiting and diarrhea accompanied by significant fluid loss from the body. It may also cause heart rhythm abnormalities and seizures. The Department of Horticultural Science at North Carolina State University considers cyclamen to be "toxic only if large quantities eaten". the bulb is the part of concern and is bitter, thus between being buried in soil and tasting bad may be less of a concern but worthy of mentioning since some dogs get into anything. not that any if mine would ever do that.... yea... right............
Christmas rose
The Christmas rose or Helleborus niger, is another poisonous plant whose toxicity depends on the amount that's eaten. Eating the plant can result in a burning sensation in the mouth and throat, abdominal cramps, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, depression, and a slow heartbeat.
Jerusalem cherry
The plant is also known as the winter cherry and the Christmas cherry.
The fruits of the Jerusalem cherry are sometimes confused with cherry tomatoes. This is a serious mistake, since Solanum pseudocapsicum is poisonous. The plant contains a toxin called solanocapsine. The leaves and unripe fruit contain the highest concentration of the toxin.
The assessments of the Jerusalem cherry's danger vary widely and range all the way from "mildly poisonous" to "deadly". It seems like a good idea for families with young children or pets to avoid this plant and err on the side of safety. Symptoms of poisoning include headache, stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, drowsiness, and slow breathing.
Autumn Crocus
The Autumn Crocus, also known as the Meadow Saffron
The Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) is a flower that physically resembles a true Crocus plant, but is actually a lily. Like other lilies in the Colchicum family, it contains a poison called colchicine for which there is no known antidote. Ingestion of this plant, also known as the Meadow Saffron or naked lady, can cause severe gastrointestinal distress, damage to multiple internal organs, and without treatment will usually lead to death.
Holly – the berry and leaf Mistletoe
Mistletoe contains multiple substances that are toxic to both dogs and cats, including toxalbumin and pharatoxin viscumin (lectins, phoratoxins). It’s well-known for causing severe intestinal upset as well as a sudden and severe drop in blood pressure, breathing problems and even hallucinations (showing up as unusual behavior).
If a large enough amount of these plants are ingested, seizures and death may follow.
The leaves and berries of holly and mistletoe plants, even the dried plants, should be kept well out of your pet's reach, or better yet, kept out of the home altogether.
The Christmas Tree itself
There are dangers beyond lights and ornaments.
Firs, spruce, pine trees, and cedars are the trees that are most often used as Christmas trees and as greenery for decorations.
The oils produced by fir trees can be irritating to a pet's mouth and stomach. The tree needles, meanwhile, may cause gastrointestinal irritation, obstruction and punctures.
the water used for Christmas trees can be noxious. Bacteria, molds and fertilizers can cause your pet to become extremely sick with only a few laps of water. Keep the water covered and blocked off to prevent pets from accessing it.
Sago palm
All Cycad plants, including sago palm, are extremely poisonous.
Although many pets may find cycad plants very palatable and pleasing to chew on, all parts of this plant are highly toxic: leaves, trunk, roots, and seeds. The newly sprouting leaves and the reddish seeds are particularly poisonous. Ingesting even one seed can kill a dog.
The primary toxic agent of the sago palm and other cycads is called cycasin. It is both a neurotoxic glycoside (a nerve-poisoning plant sugar) and a carcinogen. The mortality rate of pets that have ingested Sago plant is high - up to 75%.
Dieffenbachia
(Dumb Cane) -- aka; palm lily, cornstalk plant, corn plant, ribbon plant, dragon tree, Madagascar dragon tree, money tree, lucky bamboo With its broad variegated leaves, the dieffenbachia is often recommended as an ideal houseplant for natural air purification.
But if you choose to have one in your home, be sure it's well out of your dog's reach. When eaten, it not only burns the mouth and throat but causes the esophagus to swell, potentially blocking the dog's airway.
References
A toxic plant database from North Carolina State University
https://happytailservet.com/the-ultimate-list-of-toxic-plants-for-dogs/
***********
ASPCA Animal Poison-Control Center provides a database of common pet poisons and is available for telephone consultations (1-888-426-4435) in case of a poisoning emergency. You may be charged a fee for the consultation.
My summer heat warning
we carry extra water in ice chest and have 'doggy booties' for the 'kids'
** COLD water too fast into a hot mammal can cause heart failure **
we carry extra water in ice chest and have 'doggy booties' for the 'kids'
** COLD water too fast into a hot mammal can cause heart failure **
the danger to your dog may vary by age - overall health - stress level - cloud conditions vs sun shining on your car or camper.
please please be aware just how fast that 4 minute nip into the store can affect your 4 or 2 legged friends - this applies to grandma also!
Please wear a mask. We are older and while not fear mongering do realize the potential seriousness of this.
We have always practiced safety and cleanliness protocols however with the onset of covid these protocols need to be enhanced to safely facilitate the transfer of your puppy while maintaining social distancing.
We require that everyone uses hand sanitizer and must limit the number of visitors to one or two at a time.
When you decide to come for your puppy, make sure you wash your hands, clothes, and shoes before and after picking up your new dog. Current recommendations are to stay at least 6-12 feet from any breeder or person.
Please DO NOT make any stops on the way to get your puppy.
NOUN
fomite (noun)
objects or materials which are likely to carry infection, such as clothes, utensils, and furniture. And YES the dogs hair is a fomite surface.
It is possible an infected person could transmit viruses from their mouth to the dog’s fur or face, and you could pick it up from touching the dog then touching your face.
we spray our floor mats in the car with a Clorox disinfectant and wipe the service dogs feet with anti viral wipes before getting in the car. as such I suggest you consider similar when out and about as your shoes can transmit all manner of nasty things.....
A few comments as of 1/21/21 and updates as this CCP affects us all in one way or another
Israeli experts highlight that the level of protection after the first dose of COVID-19 vaccination may not be as high as many hoped. A first data analysis suggests an effectiveness of 33% from 14 days after vaccination in people over 60.
Noting that it is not being mentioned that a 2nd vaccination 3 weeks later can significantly increase immune response.
researchers estimate that the mutation labeled B.1.1.7 is 50–75% more transmissible
Viruses are prone to mutations. Indeed, all genetic material, including that of humans, can mutate when mistakes occur during replication.
A mutation of a virus occurs when there is a change in its genetic sequence. This
yes we are paranoid. We are older and potentially more at risk.
When traveling with your dog I’ll suggest never stopping at the rest area on the interstate. They can clean the people area but getting every last bit in the dog area is not possible. Parvo for one can survive a wide range of temperatures for 6 months. Think of the number of dogs from who knows where traveling that may have been there? Next worst place fast food or gas stations on the interstate. We get off a side road a 1/8 mile or so and can usually find a closed business or some place to only worry about the local strays for the most part. Be polite and pick up after your dog… I will mention we saw one of those ‘rescues’ walking a dozen obviously sick dogs behind a truck stop. I feel sorry for the truckers that live with their dogs more than their family in the event their dog buddy picks up a disease from that situation. Err on the side of caution especially with a young pup whose immunity may not be up to full until a good 4 months old and puppy vaccinations complete.
Cyanobacteria Bloom 2020 concern for algea is over but leaving the info as this is a recurring concern
Some cyanobacteria may produce dangerous nervous system toxins. When in abundance, toxin concentrations can elevate to levels that affect the health of organisms exposed to them, including people, pets, and livestock. Humans and animals can ingest varying amounts of the growth material and/or toxins. Even very small pieces of the cyanobacterial growth may contain enough anatoxin-a to cause medical emergencies. These pieces of bacteria may be hard to see or even invisible.
This “algae” is not actually a type of algae but a bacterium known as cyanobacteria. Cyanobacteria isn’t visible to the naked eye, but it often gives the appearance of algae when it clumps together in bodies of water. These bacteria are often found in non-flowing freshwater during hot seasons with little rainfall. Toxic algae can also grow in backyard pools and decorative ponds if they aren’t routinely cleaned.
Children and dogs are especially susceptible to being exposed to anatoxin-a. Anatoxin-a can be absorbed through the eyes, nose, or mouth by swimming in or submerging accidentally or unknowingly into contaminated water. Symptoms include skin rash, salivation, drowsiness, tingling, burning, numbness, pain, incoherent speech, seizures, vomiting, and diarrhea.
If your get in affected water, remove them from the water immediately, rinse off their fur thoroughly, and monitor for symptoms of toxin poisoning. A dog can die in as little as 15 minutes from anatoxin-a poisoning.
you may wish to visit the below link.
https://www.epa.gov/nutrientpollution/harmful-algal-blooms
Some cyanobacteria may produce dangerous nervous system toxins. When in abundance, toxin concentrations can elevate to levels that affect the health of organisms exposed to them, including people, pets, and livestock. Humans and animals can ingest varying amounts of the growth material and/or toxins. Even very small pieces of the cyanobacterial growth may contain enough anatoxin-a to cause medical emergencies. These pieces of bacteria may be hard to see or even invisible.
This “algae” is not actually a type of algae but a bacterium known as cyanobacteria. Cyanobacteria isn’t visible to the naked eye, but it often gives the appearance of algae when it clumps together in bodies of water. These bacteria are often found in non-flowing freshwater during hot seasons with little rainfall. Toxic algae can also grow in backyard pools and decorative ponds if they aren’t routinely cleaned.
Children and dogs are especially susceptible to being exposed to anatoxin-a. Anatoxin-a can be absorbed through the eyes, nose, or mouth by swimming in or submerging accidentally or unknowingly into contaminated water. Symptoms include skin rash, salivation, drowsiness, tingling, burning, numbness, pain, incoherent speech, seizures, vomiting, and diarrhea.
If your get in affected water, remove them from the water immediately, rinse off their fur thoroughly, and monitor for symptoms of toxin poisoning. A dog can die in as little as 15 minutes from anatoxin-a poisoning.
you may wish to visit the below link.
https://www.epa.gov/nutrientpollution/harmful-algal-blooms
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COVID info I find interesting from across the pond - could be relevant to the entire world
Dogs are now being trained by UK non-profit organization, Medical Detection Dogs, to detect the novel coronavirus. If successful, the specially trained dogs could become one of the world’s most valuable tools in the fight against COVID-19. Once trained, the detection dogs could alert to asymptomatic carriers traveling in airports or busy transportation hubs.
Medical Detection Dogs explained to the BBC that each virus has a unique smell, undetectable by humans. But, nature has provided dogs with a nearly perfect sense of smell. If you have a dog, you already know that your dog will smell something long before you can. In fact, the average dog has over 300 million olfactory receptors in their noses (compared to a relatively tiny six million for humans).
Dogs are now being trained by UK non-profit organization, Medical Detection Dogs, to detect the novel coronavirus. If successful, the specially trained dogs could become one of the world’s most valuable tools in the fight against COVID-19. Once trained, the detection dogs could alert to asymptomatic carriers traveling in airports or busy transportation hubs.
Medical Detection Dogs explained to the BBC that each virus has a unique smell, undetectable by humans. But, nature has provided dogs with a nearly perfect sense of smell. If you have a dog, you already know that your dog will smell something long before you can. In fact, the average dog has over 300 million olfactory receptors in their noses (compared to a relatively tiny six million for humans).
current pricing
we are seeing number of breeders double and more their pricing as there is at present somewhat of a seller's market. we do not feel that is a good or ethical method doing business. we are at about the same pricing we have been, outright gouging especially in light of the pandemic I just don't see doing that.
we are seeing number of breeders double and more their pricing as there is at present somewhat of a seller's market. we do not feel that is a good or ethical method doing business. we are at about the same pricing we have been, outright gouging especially in light of the pandemic I just don't see doing that.
Questions we get asked on do we have an application or contract for you to fill out / sign.
Other breeders have a contract or form to fill out do you?
Simply put… I feel contracts as basically unenforceable and the only ones that win are the lawyers.
you will get a written warranty. a contract saying you have to do this or that does not make sense to me. we put no requirements on what is hopefully a well thought out decision to add a new family member
We do ask for your best description of your ideal pup along with the broadest parameters you can be happy within – what your families desires are – any special needs? Do you need a hypoallergenic dog for the people there? We ask you allow us this information to help us best recommend a good fit between you and pup.
There is an old sales maxim the more effort a buyer has to put into something the more likely they are to buy. Perfect example is something like publishers clearing house. Answer a gazillion questions – jump through a lot of hurdles and be tricked into buying something to get better standing on their drawings. Perchance some breeders feel the more they ask of you on a questionnaire the likelier you are to feel they are a good breeder.
As for pricing…. Short story many many moons ago I sold my artwork at festivals for what I felt was a reasonable price for time and effort involved. It was not selling. Another artisan told me to triple my prices as the more something cost the more most thought its value must be. I think some breeders apply these tactics even though they may not put as much effort into a quality pup such as genetic testing etc………..
Do you require spay neuter? We recommend it closer to a year old. Again, rather unenforceable.
We’ve seen breeders ask about your children. We feel every pup ought to own a child. However, if your children are not well behaved then they should be trained first for your benefit as well as the dogs.
We’ve seen questionnaires wanting the names of everyone in the family. As long as they or you know their names I don’t need to. As for me call me anything you like just don’t call me late for dinner.
I’ve seen one ‘breeder’ go so far as to say if you smoke you can’t buy one of her dogs. well… my take is that is an unhealthy habit and you should abandon it for your health as well as your families and the dog(s). The money you save could be well spent on some great dog toys and a nice meal out for you once in a while. I will place a pup with you that said.
Some ask about number of dogs / pets in the household. With 6 dogs laying here watching me type I am not a hypocrite saying you can’t have more the 3 dogs in your house. That is your decision. 1 dog may be to much for some folks. 2 dogs are great company for each other and awesome entertainment at times for you. More dogs are fine as long as they are well taken care of and loved.
Do you rent – dog ownership is between you and your landlord.
I could write a book on ludicrous questions we’ve seen on applications….
Enough said… I hope you get my drift.
anothe
Pet transport services.
we no longer send pups by airlines
while we highly recommend microchip ID which we offer at $25 we are requiring it with ground ( 3rd party ) transport.
a few ideas on shipping recommended by folks that have gotten pups
dog shippers The owner of the Transport company is Terry and her phone number is 931-217-6405. Her email is territodd5@aol.com
She doesn't usually answer email oh, but we have utilized her four times in the last 18 months or so and each trip has been perfect.
I like Sandra! I think her territory is pretty large but not sure. Here is her phone number: (817) 989-0921
https://citizenshipper.com/dog-transportation
Pet transport services.
we no longer send pups by airlines
while we highly recommend microchip ID which we offer at $25 we are requiring it with ground ( 3rd party ) transport.
a few ideas on shipping recommended by folks that have gotten pups
dog shippers The owner of the Transport company is Terry and her phone number is 931-217-6405. Her email is territodd5@aol.com
She doesn't usually answer email oh, but we have utilized her four times in the last 18 months or so and each trip has been perfect.
I like Sandra! I think her territory is pretty large but not sure. Here is her phone number: (817) 989-0921
https://citizenshipper.com/dog-transportation
What does F1 or F1b mean?
F1 - F first generation cross of parent breeds for create a hybrid of reasonably stable predictability in this case
F1b - that hybrid 'b' Back to a parent breed in this case almost always to the poodle to reinforce the poodle characteristic of the non-shed coat yet maintaining some to the other breeds bone structure while litigating the curliness of the poodle’s coat to a degree. as the parent breed would be defeating the purpose.
F2 would be F1 to F1 - which is not always a good idea as what we call the grandfather effect comes into play. simple Mendelian pea theory would have the results of 25% each parent breed and 50% mix as expected and normally achieved in F1. Dogs however, have a more complex set of genes than pea flower colors...
taking it further - if a breeder selected the best of desired mix each generation by F4 a fairly stable 'product would be achieved and by F7 a new breed created breeding fairly true. anything leaning too heavy to either original parent breed could be referred to as a 'flash in the pan' or something well out towards the flattening end of the statistical bell curve
F1 - F first generation cross of parent breeds for create a hybrid of reasonably stable predictability in this case
F1b - that hybrid 'b' Back to a parent breed in this case almost always to the poodle to reinforce the poodle characteristic of the non-shed coat yet maintaining some to the other breeds bone structure while litigating the curliness of the poodle’s coat to a degree. as the parent breed would be defeating the purpose.
F2 would be F1 to F1 - which is not always a good idea as what we call the grandfather effect comes into play. simple Mendelian pea theory would have the results of 25% each parent breed and 50% mix as expected and normally achieved in F1. Dogs however, have a more complex set of genes than pea flower colors...
taking it further - if a breeder selected the best of desired mix each generation by F4 a fairly stable 'product would be achieved and by F7 a new breed created breeding fairly true. anything leaning too heavy to either original parent breed could be referred to as a 'flash in the pan' or something well out towards the flattening end of the statistical bell curve
Herbs for natural mosquito repellent – safe for dogs and kids
Mosquitos can give rise to a host of complications ranging from itchy bites and hot spots, to heartworm disease and West Nile Virus, and more.
many of the effective pesticides and mosquito repellents humans use are highly toxic, even deadly to pets.
A few plants you can add to your yard / patio pots to help repel mosquitoes as well as some help keep flies or even mice at bay. See more on these herbs in my essential oils for dogs section as you can also make repellents for your family 2 and 4 legged.
I’ll not include pictures of these plants as they are readily available on any search engine.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) an annual in zones the get frost
This hardy, easy-to-grow plant is more than just a tasty addition to your favorite recipes – it naturally deters mosquitoes, too! Unlike most other insect-repelling herbs, basil doesn’t have to be crushed or ground in order to release the scent and oils that keep mosquitoes at bay. There are a wide variety of basil plants, all of which provide some relief from the flying pests, but lemon basil and cinnamon basil are the most effective. Bonus: Basil plants naturally repel house flies, too!
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) perennial
We all know cats (and some dogs!) love catnip. But, mosquitoes absolutely hate it! Some studies have actually shown catnip to be several times more effective at repelling mosquitoes than DEET, a potentially dangerous chemical used in many bug repellents. Catnip is easy to grow and can be planted in pots strategically placed around the yard and seating areas to keep bugs at bay. Although while repelling mosquitoes, you could be making the local cats happy…
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) perennial with shorter lifespan
A plus is lavender is an esthetically pleasing plant as well as fragrant addition to your garden, mosquitoes despise the calming, fresh scent of lavender. Lavender can be planted in your garden, right in the ground, or grown in pots on your deck, porch, or windowsill, both indoors and out for a splash of color, a fresh, calming fragrance, and to keep those bloodsuckers (the flying kind not politicians darn it… ) away from your family
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) perennial only on zones without fost
Lemon Balm, also known as horsemint, is another hardy, easy-to-grow plant that naturally repels mosquitoes. Thriving well in both sunny spots or in the shade, this plant gives off a strong scent similar to citronella that mosquitoes despise. Grow it in a pot and place in the center of your patio table, beside entryways, or around the yard to keep the area clear of mosquitoes. And, best of all, while mosquitoes can’t stand Lemon balm, bees and butterflies don’t mind it at all!
Peppermint (Mentha piperita) perennial
Because of its strong, minty aroma, many insects, including mosquitoes, steer clear of peppermint plants. Most of the mint family will take over an area spreading easily so be aware of that. You may want to consider planting them in pots and strategically placing them around sitting areas, on windowsills, and near entryways, rather than planting in the ground. Further, while they’re basically non-toxic to dogs and many enjoy the taste and smell and will nibble or roll around in them to much of a good thing can cause stomach distress. Use the leaves to add flavor to teas and other delicious minty recipes! (sorry I just have to get in the mint julep – being a southern gal)
Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)
And good plant for culinary use as well as beautiful purple flowers that bloom in the spring and early summer. A bonus of being a drought-tolerant evergreen that is safe for dogs while repugnant to mosquitoes
Geranium annual intolerant of frost.
AKA the poor man’s rose as it has a scent very similar to rose.
Note this is NOT the same geranium flower that you would find at your local nursery however, you may find it sold as mosquito plant in the spring. The variety of geranium used to repel mosquitoes is Pelargonium graveolens L’Herit. Geranium essential oil is also made from this variety of plant
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) perennial
Another pet-safe option for naturally repelling fleas, that’s also useful in the kitchen, is rosemary. Unpleasant to both mosquitoes and other flying insects, rosemary is quite versatile. Plant in pots, protect your herb garden from insects, or use around the perimeter of your yard to keep insects away while at the same time attracting butterflies.
Surround yourself with these live plants that naturally (and safely) repel mosquitoes!
Mosquitos can give rise to a host of complications ranging from itchy bites and hot spots, to heartworm disease and West Nile Virus, and more.
many of the effective pesticides and mosquito repellents humans use are highly toxic, even deadly to pets.
A few plants you can add to your yard / patio pots to help repel mosquitoes as well as some help keep flies or even mice at bay. See more on these herbs in my essential oils for dogs section as you can also make repellents for your family 2 and 4 legged.
I’ll not include pictures of these plants as they are readily available on any search engine.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) an annual in zones the get frost
This hardy, easy-to-grow plant is more than just a tasty addition to your favorite recipes – it naturally deters mosquitoes, too! Unlike most other insect-repelling herbs, basil doesn’t have to be crushed or ground in order to release the scent and oils that keep mosquitoes at bay. There are a wide variety of basil plants, all of which provide some relief from the flying pests, but lemon basil and cinnamon basil are the most effective. Bonus: Basil plants naturally repel house flies, too!
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) perennial
We all know cats (and some dogs!) love catnip. But, mosquitoes absolutely hate it! Some studies have actually shown catnip to be several times more effective at repelling mosquitoes than DEET, a potentially dangerous chemical used in many bug repellents. Catnip is easy to grow and can be planted in pots strategically placed around the yard and seating areas to keep bugs at bay. Although while repelling mosquitoes, you could be making the local cats happy…
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) perennial with shorter lifespan
A plus is lavender is an esthetically pleasing plant as well as fragrant addition to your garden, mosquitoes despise the calming, fresh scent of lavender. Lavender can be planted in your garden, right in the ground, or grown in pots on your deck, porch, or windowsill, both indoors and out for a splash of color, a fresh, calming fragrance, and to keep those bloodsuckers (the flying kind not politicians darn it… ) away from your family
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) perennial only on zones without fost
Lemon Balm, also known as horsemint, is another hardy, easy-to-grow plant that naturally repels mosquitoes. Thriving well in both sunny spots or in the shade, this plant gives off a strong scent similar to citronella that mosquitoes despise. Grow it in a pot and place in the center of your patio table, beside entryways, or around the yard to keep the area clear of mosquitoes. And, best of all, while mosquitoes can’t stand Lemon balm, bees and butterflies don’t mind it at all!
Peppermint (Mentha piperita) perennial
Because of its strong, minty aroma, many insects, including mosquitoes, steer clear of peppermint plants. Most of the mint family will take over an area spreading easily so be aware of that. You may want to consider planting them in pots and strategically placing them around sitting areas, on windowsills, and near entryways, rather than planting in the ground. Further, while they’re basically non-toxic to dogs and many enjoy the taste and smell and will nibble or roll around in them to much of a good thing can cause stomach distress. Use the leaves to add flavor to teas and other delicious minty recipes! (sorry I just have to get in the mint julep – being a southern gal)
Thyme (Thymus serpyllum)
And good plant for culinary use as well as beautiful purple flowers that bloom in the spring and early summer. A bonus of being a drought-tolerant evergreen that is safe for dogs while repugnant to mosquitoes
Geranium annual intolerant of frost.
AKA the poor man’s rose as it has a scent very similar to rose.
Note this is NOT the same geranium flower that you would find at your local nursery however, you may find it sold as mosquito plant in the spring. The variety of geranium used to repel mosquitoes is Pelargonium graveolens L’Herit. Geranium essential oil is also made from this variety of plant
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) perennial
Another pet-safe option for naturally repelling fleas, that’s also useful in the kitchen, is rosemary. Unpleasant to both mosquitoes and other flying insects, rosemary is quite versatile. Plant in pots, protect your herb garden from insects, or use around the perimeter of your yard to keep insects away while at the same time attracting butterflies.
Surround yourself with these live plants that naturally (and safely) repel mosquitoes!
A short list of safe Essential Oils that are generally safe and useful for dogs. While there are more these cover a nice range of benefits and will be a good introduction to the use of essential oils.
Carrot Seed (Daucus carota)
Carrot seed essential oil is an oil for the skin. It has anti-inflammatory properties, with moderate antibacterial effects.
This oil is good for dry, flaky, sensitive skin which is prone to infection. It can also rejuvenate and stimulate tissue regeneration, so it is a good oil to use for scar healing.
(NOTE: This oil should NOT be used with pregnant dogs.)
Cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana)
Cedarwood is antiseptic, tonifying, and it can stimulate blood circulation.
It is good for skin and coat conditioning and dermatitis of all types.
In addition, it has flea-repelling effects so cedarwood is a good and safe oil to add to any flea-repellent blend for dogs.
Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita)
German Chamomile essential oil is anti-inflammatory. It is gentle and safe to use on dogs.
This oil is very effective in controlling skin irritations caused by allergies, eczema, rashes, etc. It is a good oil for healing burns as well.
Chamomile, Roman (Chamaemelum nobile)
Roman Chamomile has different properties than German Chamomile. R. Chamomile is antispasmodic, pain relieving, and nerve-calming.
It is very gentle and is an excellent oil to use for soothing and calming anxious dogs.
It is also effective for relief of muscle pains, cramps, puppy teething pain.
This oil is a "must-have" oil for dogs!
Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea)
Clary Sage also has calming effects - it can sedate the central nervous system.
It can be used to calm dogs with anxiety, but should only be used in small amounts and properly diluted.
(NOTE: This oil should NOT be used with pregnant dogs.)
Eucalyptus Radiata (Eucalyptus radiata)
Eucalyptus essential oil is antiviral and anti-inflammatory. It is also an expectorant, so it is an excellent oil for use to relieve chest congestion.
If your dog is suffering from an upper respiratory disease, such as a bout of kennel cough, and is coughing and having trouble breathing smoothly, this oil may help.
There are various types of Eucalyptus oils. Two common ones are Eucalyptus globulus and Eucalyptus radiata.
E. globulus has a stronger and harsher scent. Since dogs have a much more sensitve sense of smell, many may find E. globulus overwhelming!
On the other hand, E. radiata has a milder scent (and milder chemically-speaking as well), and I recommend using this oil with dogs.
Diluted properly, Eucalyptus radiata essential oil is safe for dogs (with the exception of small dogs and puppies), both topically and for inhalation. Be sure NOT to let your dog ingest this oil though.
(NOTE: Avoid using this oil with small dogs and puppies. To be extra safe, avoid this oil with dogs prone to seizures as well.)
Geranium (Pelargonium x asperum)
Geranium essential oil is safe and gentle for dogs.
It is a strong antifungal oil and is good for skin irritations (especially caused by yeast infections), as well as fungal ear infections in dogs.
In addition, Geranium oil is effective in repelling ticks, and is a must-have oil if you want to make your own tick-repelling oil blend for your dog.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)
Properly diluted, Ginger essential oil is non-irritating and safe to use on dogs in small amounts.
It is an excellent oil for dogs with motion sickness, because it is anti-nausea.
Ginger oil can also help with digestion and tummy upset.
In addition, this oil has pain relieving properties. Used topically, it can help relieve pain in dogs with arthritis, dysplasia, strains and sprains.
Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum)
Helichrysum essential oil is expensive but has a lot of great therapeutic properties. It is anti-inflammatory, pain relieving, and has regenerative effects.
It is a good oil to have if your dog has skin issues, such as skin irritations, eczema, pyoderma, etc.
In addition, due to its regenerative properties, it is an excellent oil to use to heal wounds, such as bruises, scars, cuts, etc.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Don't confused true Lavender oil (Lavandula angustifolia) with Spike Lavender essential oil (Lavandula latifolia). While true Lavender oil is very safe and gentle and can be used with most dogs, Spike Lavender oil should NOT be used with pregnant dogs.
True Lavender oil has antibacterial, anti-itch, and nerve-calming properties.
It is good for many common dog ailments and problems, e.g. skin irritations, anxiety, insect bites, cuts and burns, etc.
It can also be used to help calm down dogs who are stressed, nervous, or agitated. A study found that Lavender could calm excited dogs while traveling in car.
This oil is a "must-have" oil for dogs!
Marjoram, Sweet (Origanum majorana)
Sweet Marjoram essential oil has strong antibacterial properties. It is also calming and a muscle relaxant.
Use this oil for bacterial skin infections and wound care.
You can also add this oil to an insect-repelling blend as Sweet Marjoram oil has insect repelling properties as well.
Niaouli (Melaleuca Quinquenervia)
If you (and your dog) don't mind the scent of this oil, Niaouli is a must-have oil.
It has powerful antibacterial properties (comparable to those in Tea Tree oil), yet Niaouli oil is less likely to cause irritation than Tea Tree.
Use this oil to help dogs with skin irritation and infections caused by allergies. Also, it is an effective antiseptic oil that can disinfect and help fight bacterial infections.
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)
Peppermint essential oil stimulates blood circulation and is antispamodic, so it is a great oil for dogs with acute pain. Use this oil to soothe pain caused by swelling, sprains and strains.
Peppermint oil is also anti-nausea and works well with ginger to help dogs with motion sickness.
It is generally safe if properly diluted and used topically, or for diffusion in low dilution.
However, avoid using Peppermint oil with small dogs and pregnant dogs.
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis)
Sweet Orange essential oil has calming and uplifting effects. It is good for dogs with anxiety, and/or depression. It can also stimulate a dog's appetite. If your dog is not eating (maybe due to stress or depression), diffusing this oil before mealtime may help.
Since this oil has deodorizing and flea-repelling properties, it can be added to your homemade doggie shampoo.
Thyme ct. Linalool (Thymus vulgaris ct. linalool)
There are many different chemotypes of Thyme essential oil. The only chemotype that is mild and safe enough for dogs to use is Thyme ct. Linalool.
This Thyme oil has pain relieving properties, and can be added to a blend to help dogs with arthritis, rheumatism, or other joint pain.
Additionally, Thyme oil has powerful antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties. It is an excellent choice for infections and other skin issues.
This is a "must-have" oil for your dog!
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
Valerian essential oil has sedative and nerve-calming effects, and is good for helping dogs with anxiety such as separation and noise anxiety.
Look for essential oils that are bottled in amber, cobalt or violet glass bottles.
Look for important information of the oils (either printed on the label, and/or on the store's website, brochure, etc.):
* Latin name of the oil (e.g. Lavandula angustifolia);
* Common name of the oil (e.g. Lavender);
* How the oil was extracted;
* Country of origin;
* Method of cultivation (e.g. organic, cultivated, wild harvested, etc.)
* The words "100% pure essential oil".
Essential oils are generally expensive, so don't go for unreasonably cheap oils since cheap oils are likely to be adulterated. Please do your research on quality and purity.
Carrot Seed (Daucus carota)
Carrot seed essential oil is an oil for the skin. It has anti-inflammatory properties, with moderate antibacterial effects.
This oil is good for dry, flaky, sensitive skin which is prone to infection. It can also rejuvenate and stimulate tissue regeneration, so it is a good oil to use for scar healing.
(NOTE: This oil should NOT be used with pregnant dogs.)
Cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana)
Cedarwood is antiseptic, tonifying, and it can stimulate blood circulation.
It is good for skin and coat conditioning and dermatitis of all types.
In addition, it has flea-repelling effects so cedarwood is a good and safe oil to add to any flea-repellent blend for dogs.
Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita)
German Chamomile essential oil is anti-inflammatory. It is gentle and safe to use on dogs.
This oil is very effective in controlling skin irritations caused by allergies, eczema, rashes, etc. It is a good oil for healing burns as well.
Chamomile, Roman (Chamaemelum nobile)
Roman Chamomile has different properties than German Chamomile. R. Chamomile is antispasmodic, pain relieving, and nerve-calming.
It is very gentle and is an excellent oil to use for soothing and calming anxious dogs.
It is also effective for relief of muscle pains, cramps, puppy teething pain.
This oil is a "must-have" oil for dogs!
Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea)
Clary Sage also has calming effects - it can sedate the central nervous system.
It can be used to calm dogs with anxiety, but should only be used in small amounts and properly diluted.
(NOTE: This oil should NOT be used with pregnant dogs.)
Eucalyptus Radiata (Eucalyptus radiata)
Eucalyptus essential oil is antiviral and anti-inflammatory. It is also an expectorant, so it is an excellent oil for use to relieve chest congestion.
If your dog is suffering from an upper respiratory disease, such as a bout of kennel cough, and is coughing and having trouble breathing smoothly, this oil may help.
There are various types of Eucalyptus oils. Two common ones are Eucalyptus globulus and Eucalyptus radiata.
E. globulus has a stronger and harsher scent. Since dogs have a much more sensitve sense of smell, many may find E. globulus overwhelming!
On the other hand, E. radiata has a milder scent (and milder chemically-speaking as well), and I recommend using this oil with dogs.
Diluted properly, Eucalyptus radiata essential oil is safe for dogs (with the exception of small dogs and puppies), both topically and for inhalation. Be sure NOT to let your dog ingest this oil though.
(NOTE: Avoid using this oil with small dogs and puppies. To be extra safe, avoid this oil with dogs prone to seizures as well.)
Geranium (Pelargonium x asperum)
Geranium essential oil is safe and gentle for dogs.
It is a strong antifungal oil and is good for skin irritations (especially caused by yeast infections), as well as fungal ear infections in dogs.
In addition, Geranium oil is effective in repelling ticks, and is a must-have oil if you want to make your own tick-repelling oil blend for your dog.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)
Properly diluted, Ginger essential oil is non-irritating and safe to use on dogs in small amounts.
It is an excellent oil for dogs with motion sickness, because it is anti-nausea.
Ginger oil can also help with digestion and tummy upset.
In addition, this oil has pain relieving properties. Used topically, it can help relieve pain in dogs with arthritis, dysplasia, strains and sprains.
Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum)
Helichrysum essential oil is expensive but has a lot of great therapeutic properties. It is anti-inflammatory, pain relieving, and has regenerative effects.
It is a good oil to have if your dog has skin issues, such as skin irritations, eczema, pyoderma, etc.
In addition, due to its regenerative properties, it is an excellent oil to use to heal wounds, such as bruises, scars, cuts, etc.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Don't confused true Lavender oil (Lavandula angustifolia) with Spike Lavender essential oil (Lavandula latifolia). While true Lavender oil is very safe and gentle and can be used with most dogs, Spike Lavender oil should NOT be used with pregnant dogs.
True Lavender oil has antibacterial, anti-itch, and nerve-calming properties.
It is good for many common dog ailments and problems, e.g. skin irritations, anxiety, insect bites, cuts and burns, etc.
It can also be used to help calm down dogs who are stressed, nervous, or agitated. A study found that Lavender could calm excited dogs while traveling in car.
This oil is a "must-have" oil for dogs!
Marjoram, Sweet (Origanum majorana)
Sweet Marjoram essential oil has strong antibacterial properties. It is also calming and a muscle relaxant.
Use this oil for bacterial skin infections and wound care.
You can also add this oil to an insect-repelling blend as Sweet Marjoram oil has insect repelling properties as well.
Niaouli (Melaleuca Quinquenervia)
If you (and your dog) don't mind the scent of this oil, Niaouli is a must-have oil.
It has powerful antibacterial properties (comparable to those in Tea Tree oil), yet Niaouli oil is less likely to cause irritation than Tea Tree.
Use this oil to help dogs with skin irritation and infections caused by allergies. Also, it is an effective antiseptic oil that can disinfect and help fight bacterial infections.
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)
Peppermint essential oil stimulates blood circulation and is antispamodic, so it is a great oil for dogs with acute pain. Use this oil to soothe pain caused by swelling, sprains and strains.
Peppermint oil is also anti-nausea and works well with ginger to help dogs with motion sickness.
It is generally safe if properly diluted and used topically, or for diffusion in low dilution.
However, avoid using Peppermint oil with small dogs and pregnant dogs.
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis)
Sweet Orange essential oil has calming and uplifting effects. It is good for dogs with anxiety, and/or depression. It can also stimulate a dog's appetite. If your dog is not eating (maybe due to stress or depression), diffusing this oil before mealtime may help.
Since this oil has deodorizing and flea-repelling properties, it can be added to your homemade doggie shampoo.
Thyme ct. Linalool (Thymus vulgaris ct. linalool)
There are many different chemotypes of Thyme essential oil. The only chemotype that is mild and safe enough for dogs to use is Thyme ct. Linalool.
This Thyme oil has pain relieving properties, and can be added to a blend to help dogs with arthritis, rheumatism, or other joint pain.
Additionally, Thyme oil has powerful antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties. It is an excellent choice for infections and other skin issues.
This is a "must-have" oil for your dog!
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
Valerian essential oil has sedative and nerve-calming effects, and is good for helping dogs with anxiety such as separation and noise anxiety.
Look for essential oils that are bottled in amber, cobalt or violet glass bottles.
Look for important information of the oils (either printed on the label, and/or on the store's website, brochure, etc.):
* Latin name of the oil (e.g. Lavandula angustifolia);
* Common name of the oil (e.g. Lavender);
* How the oil was extracted;
* Country of origin;
* Method of cultivation (e.g. organic, cultivated, wild harvested, etc.)
* The words "100% pure essential oil".
Essential oils are generally expensive, so don't go for unreasonably cheap oils since cheap oils are likely to be adulterated. Please do your research on quality and purity.
Honey for Dogs
Please note for allergy benefits buy locally collected pure honey as it will have been collected from regional plants species that are the root cause of many allergies in your 2 and 4 legged family members
Raw honey is used for many conditions in people and pets. It’s been shown to reduce healing time of skin conditions, relieve seasonal allergies, improve digestive health and even provide your dog a natural source of energy.
Vitamins, Minerals: Raw honey is naturally rich in minerals (like calcium, potassium, manganese, copper and many others) as well as vitamins A, B-complex, C, D, E, and K.
Antioxidants: Honey is also filled with flavonoids, which are natural antioxidants which can purportedly help slow the aging process, prevent illness by, and preserve food. They serve an important role in pet health.
Simple Sugars: Raw honey contains simple sugars, like glucose and fructose. These are known as monosaccharides which are more easily absorbed than complex sugars (like the disaccharides and polysaccharides often found in processed sugar, starchy veggies, and other sources).
Kennel Cough: Just as raw honey provides relief to humans suffering from a cough or cold, it may also help your dog find relief from the dry, unproductive cough caused by bordetella or “kennel cough”. Honey helps coat the throat and helps to relieve coughing.
Allergy Relief: Raw honey is well known for its ability to relieve allergy symptoms. Honey works in much the same way as getting an allergy shot – minute exposure helps make you immune to specific allergies.
Improved Digestion: Raw honey doesn’t ferment in your dog’s belly, which helps to calm and coat their stomach lining.
Wound Care: There are many studies exploring the benefits of raw honey, Manuka honey and medical honeys for their roles in healing. Honey has proven to play a significant role in wound care by decreasing the time it takes to heal while preventing infection. Some scientists are even exploring the role of raw honey in treating antibiotic-resistant infections like MRSA, VRE, MDR-TB, and CRE.
Senior Pets: Many reports are emerging that show feeding dogs raw honey may improve mobility in arthritic dogs.
Fleas can get out of control easily. I prefer natural remedies over chemicals when at all possible. To many horror stories about flea collars and monthly ‘poisons’ – see info I have collected and do you own research. Control F for flea collars in my FAQ page.
Inside your house
To help break the flea life cycle do this weekly
When your dog has fleas wash him / her – one product to considered is citrus Castile soap each week. I like dawn as it cuts the oils in the coat also. Lather and leave on about 10 minutes to ‘drown’ the fleas. Rinse well then follow by a final rinse with ACV (apple cider vinegar) - 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) - kills insects naturally by desiccating them – essentially cutting them so the dry out. Get food grade DE (not pool use ) rub into your dog’s coat and sprinkle around his bedding and place he spends the most time. Since it is a dust just be gentle spreading it. Try not to breath it or get into either of your eyes as it is an irritant. Use ‘yee ole mask’ we all seem to have these days….
Apply to your floors – sweep into cracks in wood floors and around the edge near baseboards wait 48 hours then vacuum your carpets and floors. Pay special attention to any places your dog hangs out since the fleas will also. Toss vacuum bag or empty canister – no flea / eggs hatching allowed…
In your yard
If fleas aren’t in your yard, they’re less likely to find their way onto your dog.
Nematodes are tiny worm-like multicellular animals that live in soil. They can help control many garden pests like ants, termites and grubs and fleas!
You can buy them at many garden centers and online in early spring. Nematodes are alive so please use them quickly after they arrive. Apply them in the spring, summer and fall for effective coverage. Spray them throughout your yard using a hose sprayer or watering can.
Keep pots of lemon balm, sage, rosemary, catnip, lemongrass, basil and mint outside. Place some by your main doors and throughout your yard. These plants help repel fleas through the natural oils that they secrete. They’ll deter fleas from entering the house.
Internally your dog
Fleas don’t like a dog who is pH balanced.
Apple cider vinegar (ACV organic unfiltered full mother – that cloudy stuff in the bottom of the bottle is important) creates a more acidic environment outside. Taken orally it can balance alkalinity.
Always mix with water or food.
½ teaspoon of ACV per day per 25 lbs. ACV contains important nutrients, vitamins, minerals, vital acids and potassium.
Externally = Make a spray
Your dog’s skin and coat should be slightly acidic to deter fleas. Spray your dog each week
Mix the ingredients in a small spray bottle and spray your dog’s coat and underbelly weekly. Please not in the eyes or any open wounds.
Inside your house
To help break the flea life cycle do this weekly
When your dog has fleas wash him / her – one product to considered is citrus Castile soap each week. I like dawn as it cuts the oils in the coat also. Lather and leave on about 10 minutes to ‘drown’ the fleas. Rinse well then follow by a final rinse with ACV (apple cider vinegar) - 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) - kills insects naturally by desiccating them – essentially cutting them so the dry out. Get food grade DE (not pool use ) rub into your dog’s coat and sprinkle around his bedding and place he spends the most time. Since it is a dust just be gentle spreading it. Try not to breath it or get into either of your eyes as it is an irritant. Use ‘yee ole mask’ we all seem to have these days….
Apply to your floors – sweep into cracks in wood floors and around the edge near baseboards wait 48 hours then vacuum your carpets and floors. Pay special attention to any places your dog hangs out since the fleas will also. Toss vacuum bag or empty canister – no flea / eggs hatching allowed…
In your yard
If fleas aren’t in your yard, they’re less likely to find their way onto your dog.
Nematodes are tiny worm-like multicellular animals that live in soil. They can help control many garden pests like ants, termites and grubs and fleas!
You can buy them at many garden centers and online in early spring. Nematodes are alive so please use them quickly after they arrive. Apply them in the spring, summer and fall for effective coverage. Spray them throughout your yard using a hose sprayer or watering can.
Keep pots of lemon balm, sage, rosemary, catnip, lemongrass, basil and mint outside. Place some by your main doors and throughout your yard. These plants help repel fleas through the natural oils that they secrete. They’ll deter fleas from entering the house.
Internally your dog
Fleas don’t like a dog who is pH balanced.
Apple cider vinegar (ACV organic unfiltered full mother – that cloudy stuff in the bottom of the bottle is important) creates a more acidic environment outside. Taken orally it can balance alkalinity.
Always mix with water or food.
½ teaspoon of ACV per day per 25 lbs. ACV contains important nutrients, vitamins, minerals, vital acids and potassium.
Externally = Make a spray
Your dog’s skin and coat should be slightly acidic to deter fleas. Spray your dog each week
- 4 oz warm water
- 6 oz ACV, unfiltered and preferably organic
- ¼ tsp of sea salt or pink Himalayan salt
Mix the ingredients in a small spray bottle and spray your dog’s coat and underbelly weekly. Please not in the eyes or any open wounds.
Blue green algea warning
Blooms of blue-green algae can produce harmful toxins which stop a dog’s liver from functioning properly. However, not all types of blue-green algae are dangerous.
Sadly, exposure to toxic blue-green algae is often fatal, and can also cause long term health problems in dogs that survive after drinking or swimming in algae-contaminated water. Some types of blue-green algae can kill a dog just 15 minutes to an hour after drinking contaminated water.
Dogs who have been swimming in water can get the algae caught in their fur, and can ingest it while cleaning themselves later on.
Concentrations of the algae vary throughout the year and may not always be harmful - but you can’t tell simply by looking at them whether or not they are dangerous, so it is best not to run the risk of allowing your dog to come into contact with water where the algae may be present.
The bacteria cannot be seen with the naked eye unless they clump together. When this happens, blue-green algae can look like green flakes, greenish bundles or brown dots in a pond, lake or stream.
Blue-green algae is a term used to describe a group of bacteria, called cyanobacteria.
They are not actually algae, but the organisms got this name because they often give the appearance of algae when they clump together in bodies of water.
When the algae blooms, it can give look like a blue-green scum has appeared on the surface of the water. It sometimes looks a bit like pea soup.
Blooms of the organisms often build up around the edges of ponds and lakes, which may look like foam.
It is most common in non-flowing fresh water such as lakes and ponds during hot weather when there is less rainfall, but can also occur at other times of the year.
You may notice dead fish in ponds or lakes with a high concentration of the toxic bacteria. Don’t let your dog drink from water containing dead animals.
The algae may be present in a harmful form even if you cannot see it, so take note of any warning signs in the area.
If your dog shows any of the following signs after drinking from, or swimming or paddling in water, contact your vet immediately and tell them you are concerned about blue-green algae:
Vomiting/being sick Diarrhea Seizures/fitting Breathing difficulties
Weakness/collapse/ Disorientation/confusion Drooling
The neurological signs can happen very, very quickly.
Intense blooms have led to swimming bans from lakes in the Pacific Northwest to the entire Mississippi seacoast and to Lake Hopatcong, New Jersey's largest lake. Algal blooms tend to thrive in high temperatures and after heavy rains carry fertilizer runoff and sewage into waterways.
"This time of year is when you have the most numbers of cases and people are out and about with their animals and the conditions are ripe for the cyanobacteria to grow," Val Beasley, a professor of veterinary, wildlife and ecological toxicology sciences at Pennsylvania State University
There is no antidote for the toxins produced by the bacteria, but if caught early enough, your vet will likely try to make your dog sick and attempt to flush the toxins from the body before they take hold.
important note a few spoonfuls of hydrogen peroxide will make your dog vomit hopefully bringing up whatever bad has been ingested. while peroxide can irritate the stomach it is not harmful otherwise and sure beats the alternative - you can do this immdediately before the vet.
Blooms of blue-green algae can produce harmful toxins which stop a dog’s liver from functioning properly. However, not all types of blue-green algae are dangerous.
Sadly, exposure to toxic blue-green algae is often fatal, and can also cause long term health problems in dogs that survive after drinking or swimming in algae-contaminated water. Some types of blue-green algae can kill a dog just 15 minutes to an hour after drinking contaminated water.
Dogs who have been swimming in water can get the algae caught in their fur, and can ingest it while cleaning themselves later on.
Concentrations of the algae vary throughout the year and may not always be harmful - but you can’t tell simply by looking at them whether or not they are dangerous, so it is best not to run the risk of allowing your dog to come into contact with water where the algae may be present.
The bacteria cannot be seen with the naked eye unless they clump together. When this happens, blue-green algae can look like green flakes, greenish bundles or brown dots in a pond, lake or stream.
Blue-green algae is a term used to describe a group of bacteria, called cyanobacteria.
They are not actually algae, but the organisms got this name because they often give the appearance of algae when they clump together in bodies of water.
When the algae blooms, it can give look like a blue-green scum has appeared on the surface of the water. It sometimes looks a bit like pea soup.
Blooms of the organisms often build up around the edges of ponds and lakes, which may look like foam.
It is most common in non-flowing fresh water such as lakes and ponds during hot weather when there is less rainfall, but can also occur at other times of the year.
You may notice dead fish in ponds or lakes with a high concentration of the toxic bacteria. Don’t let your dog drink from water containing dead animals.
The algae may be present in a harmful form even if you cannot see it, so take note of any warning signs in the area.
If your dog shows any of the following signs after drinking from, or swimming or paddling in water, contact your vet immediately and tell them you are concerned about blue-green algae:
Vomiting/being sick Diarrhea Seizures/fitting Breathing difficulties
Weakness/collapse/ Disorientation/confusion Drooling
The neurological signs can happen very, very quickly.
Intense blooms have led to swimming bans from lakes in the Pacific Northwest to the entire Mississippi seacoast and to Lake Hopatcong, New Jersey's largest lake. Algal blooms tend to thrive in high temperatures and after heavy rains carry fertilizer runoff and sewage into waterways.
"This time of year is when you have the most numbers of cases and people are out and about with their animals and the conditions are ripe for the cyanobacteria to grow," Val Beasley, a professor of veterinary, wildlife and ecological toxicology sciences at Pennsylvania State University
There is no antidote for the toxins produced by the bacteria, but if caught early enough, your vet will likely try to make your dog sick and attempt to flush the toxins from the body before they take hold.
important note a few spoonfuls of hydrogen peroxide will make your dog vomit hopefully bringing up whatever bad has been ingested. while peroxide can irritate the stomach it is not harmful otherwise and sure beats the alternative - you can do this immdediately before the vet.
Fleas can get out of control easily. I prefer natural remedies over chemicals when at all possible. To many horror stories about flea collars and monthly ‘poisons’ – see info I have collected and do you own research. Control F for flea collars in my FAQ page.
Inside your house
To help break the flea life cycle do this weekly
When your dog has fleas wash him / her – one product to considered is citrus Castile soap each week. I like dawn as it cuts the oils in the coat also. Lather and leave on about 10 minutes to ‘drown’ the fleas. Rinse well then follow by a final rinse with ACV (apple cider vinegar) - 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) - kills insects naturally by desiccating them – essentially cutting them so the dry out. Get food grade DE (not pool use ) rub into your dog’s coat and sprinkle around his bedding and place he spends the most time. Since it is a dust just be gentle spreading it. Try not to breath it or get into either of your eyes as it is an irritant. Use ‘yee ole mask’ we all seem to have these days….
Apply to your floors – sweep into cracks in wood floors and around the edge near baseboards wait 48 hours then vacuum your carpets and floors. Pay special attention to any places your dog hangs out since the fleas will also. Toss vacuum bag or empty canister – no flea / eggs hatching allowed…
In your yard
If fleas aren’t in your yard, they’re less likely to find their way onto your dog.
Nematodes are tiny worm-like multicellular animals that live in soil. They can help control many garden pests like ants, termites and grubs and fleas!
You can buy them at many garden centers and online in early spring. Nematodes are alive so please use them quickly after they arrive. Apply them in the spring, summer and fall for effective coverage. Spray them throughout your yard using a hose sprayer or watering can.
Keep pots of lemon balm, sage, rosemary, catnip, lemongrass, basil and mint outside. Place some by your main doors and throughout your yard. These plants help repel fleas through the natural oils that they secrete. They’ll deter fleas from entering the house.
Internally your dog
Fleas don’t like a dog who is pH balanced.
Apple cider vinegar (ACV organic unfiltered full mother – that cloudy stuff in the bottom of the bottle is important) creates a more acidic environment outside. Taken orally it can balance alkalinity.
Always mix with water or food.
½ teaspoon of ACV per day per 25 lbs. ACV contains important nutrients, vitamins, minerals, vital acids and potassium.
Externally = Make a spray
Your dog’s skin and coat should be slightly acidic to deter fleas. Spray your dog each week
- 4 oz warm water
- 6 oz ACV, unfiltered and preferably organic
- ¼ tsp of sea salt or pink Himalayan salt
Mix the ingredients in a small spray bottle and spray your dog’s coat and underbelly weekly. Please not in the eyes or any open wounds.
Flea and tick season
A warning! The FDA Report
2019 -- the FDA stated that flea and tick medications are causing neurological issues in pets. The symptoms most often reported include muscle tremors, ataxia and seizures.
The FDA stated that flea and tick meds are causing neurological issues in pets. The symptoms most often reported include muscle tremors, ataxia and seizures.
The side effects reported for these drugs are:
Tremors Seizures Ataxia Vomiting Diarrhea Loss of appetite Skin irritations Lethargy
According to the FDA, the products affected are:
Bravecto Nexgar Simparica Credelio (received FDA approval in 2018)
These drugs all contain an ingredient called isoxazoline.
update march 2021
Seresto flea collars introduced in 2012 – the EPA has received reports of close to 1700 pet deaths with 75,000 incidence reports related to the collar with close to 1,000 reports involving human harm.
As always, I suggest you do your own research - I’ve added this to encourage your education. We’ve personally had many of our customers tell us of bad reactions and near-death experiences with their dogs.
This applies to other / all brands also in my opinion.
All flea and tick preventatives are toxic, they’re made to kill insects after all.
I really don't like chemicals and our gardening is all organic. if you don't have a big flea problem I'd avoid the chemicals. while monthly heartguard is basically a non negotiable and necessary evil some things can be avoided. there are flea treatments that are safer. when we see fleas a good bath with dawn and let the suds soak at east 10 minutes to drown the fleas. daily inspection for ticks during the spring months are simple enough.
Make your own flea spray -
Use Essential Oils Safely Do the research and make your own spray or powder!
Essential oils can be great for natural flea control … but use caution with products that contain undiluted essential oils. Essential oils should always be diluted with a carrier oil before using them on your dog. Examples of carrier oils are:
Sweet almond oil Grapeseed oil Jojoba oil Coconut oil Apricot kernel oil
Avocado oil
Essential Oil Flea Repellent Spray
Spray your dog once he’s dried off from his bath. Start with a carrier oil. To each 1 ml of carrier oil, add one drop of one of these flea-repelling essential oils.
Chances are, if the product comes in a tiny bottle, the oils are undiluted so dilute them yourself before putting them on your dog. Here are some essential oils that are safe flea repellents when diluted:
Lavender Lemon Palmarosa Cedar (atlantica) Eucalyptus radiate Clary sage Peppermint
AVOID pennyroyal - citronella oil - close essential oil - wintergreen essential oil - geraniol essential oil and thyme essential oil as skin irritants most are toxic if swallowed
natural Flea Powder
You can also try this easy to make natural flea powder.
What you need:
Diatomaceous Earth (DE) NEEM (dry form) Yarrow
1 shaker bottle (cleaned out)
How to make it:
Mix the 3 ingredients together
Rub the mixture into your dog’s coat
Use some caution with Diatomaceous Earth as it can be irritating to your dog’s mucous membranes. Once the dust settles however, there is no harm.
suggested site for dog food recalls - https://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-recall-alert
Vaccinations.
A large debate exist in the dog world as well as with children on what is needed and when as well as potential problems. I'll add some of the research for your consideration and for you to pursue to make your own decisions.
our basic protocol is we consider parvo a very serious disease so all pups will start with that only about 6 weeks old. at 8 to 9 weeks as mothers passed on immunity may be fading and pups are going to new homes where exposure is not necessarily as protected as here they will get the basic pup series starter. your vet will understand the 'alphabet soup' of DH2PPV which is distemper hepatitis adenovirus's para influenza and parvovirus. we do not give leptospirosis vaccine to young pups as one it may interfere with the uptake of distemper which is more serious and lepto can cause a reaction in younger or smaller pups. take the vaccine protocol up with your vet and if you feel the need add it after 12 weeks of age. While rabies vaccination is required legally yearly since people can acquire rabies the other vaccines are for your dogs health. Many people go with a 3 year protocol on core vaccines. This is something you need to decide for yourself and your dog. I seems researchers change things at times - like one year coffee is bad for you the next good - same with chocolate... etc....
{{A stray comment and some opinion thrown in --- Years ago veterinarians did an antibody ( titer) test to see what level of protection a dog had and administer vaccinations as available / needed. It is next to impossible to find a vet that will run these test nowadays and admittedly blood test are expensive compared to just going with a standardized protocol of vaccinations }}
How does vaccination work?
The immune system is the body’s defense mechanism against infectious
disease.The body recognizes invading viruses and bacteria as ‘foreign’ and its reaction to
these ‘foreign invaders’ is called an immune response. The body produces antibodies
which destroy or remove the foreign substances.
The essence of vaccination is that it makes use of the body’s natural systems for
fighting disease. This is done by presenting a substance (the vaccine)
to the body which mimics a disease, but does not actually cause the disease.
In dogs the vaccine can be introduced by injection or by intranasal delivery (to protect against
agents that contribute to upper respiratory tract disease).
The body prep ares its immune response, which then is activated if that disease is
detected at some time in the future. The immune system of the body has memory,
especially for diseases prevented by CORE vaccines. This memory can prevent
those CORE diseases in an animal protected by previous vaccination. Vaccination is
the most important way to prevent certain diseases. The immune system is
continuously active in defense against disease and vaccination simply amplifies or
augments this system of defense.
Puppies can receive their first vaccination from approximately 8 -9 weeks of age The
reason that vaccination cannot be started any earlier relates to the fact that newborn
puppies obtain protection from infection through the ‘first milk’ or colostrum. The
colostrum is enriched with protective antibodies from the bitch (maternally-derived antibody
or MDA) that is crucial for providing protection, but also prevents the pup from mounting its own protective immune response until such time as the MDA has gone (maternal antibodies gradually disappear until they are all gone by around 14-16 weeks of age).
The presence of inhibitory MDA, which may vary in amount between individual puppies
Until your puppy is fully vaccinated , you should ideally not take it anywhere where it might come into contact with dogs or ground that may be infected. your puppy may not be fully protected until receiving the third vaccination at about 16 weeks old. This is because in around 10% of puppies, the antibody received in
the colostrum from the mother (MDA) can still block responses to vaccination
Core Vaccines
Core Vaccines are those that are recommended for all dogs, barring special circumstances. These core vaccines include: distemper, parvovirus, canine adenovirus I/II, and rabies. The following descriptions are taken from the University of Tennessee Breeders’ Symposium abstract by Dr. Margret Casal of the University of Pennsylvania.
Canine Distemper Vaccine: Currently, distemper vaccines are modified-live vaccines, which are very effective. It was previously thought that combining distemper and Parvo in the same vaccine would lead to a decrease or a delay in seroconversion to the distemper component. However, (Dr. Casal’s) studies and those from Cornell have been unable to substantiate such claims. If a patient is immune deficient or pregnant, MLV vaccines should not be used, because they may cause disease in the patient or the fetuses, respectively. There is a recombinant Distemper vaccine currently available that could be used for those dogs in which MLV vaccines are not an option.
Canine Parvovirus (CPV) Vaccine: In a recent study 60 mixed-breed pups were vaccinated with these newer versions of the CPV vaccines at 6, 9, and 12 weeks. The results showed that all pups had seroconverted by 15 weeks of age, suggesting a faster response and higher serum neutralization titers. Alternatively, if there are immune deficient animals present, they may contract the disease from the vaccine virus Parvovirus outbreaks are not prevented with more frequent vaccination. The only way to prevent outbreaks is with proper hygiene, even if this means foot baths and limited contact. CPV is spread by contact with contaminated shoes, clothes, soil, toys and other dogs, while CDV is passed on almost entirely by direct contact with infected dogs.
Canine Adenovirus Vaccine: Canine Adenovirus (CAV) type 1 causes infectious canine hepatitis and CAV-2 is part of the kennel cough complex.
Non-Core (Optional) Vaccines
Bordetella bronchiseptica Vaccine: This is probably not a very effective vaccine, and there are not enough studies to document either short- or long-term efficacy. However, there are some kennels that require Bordetella vaccinations before the dog can be boarded. The intranasal vaccine seems to provide marginally better protection than the injectable form.
Leptospira Vaccines: Because all Leptospira vaccines are bacterins, their use may result in allergic reactions. The later the vaccine is administered during the puppy series, the less likely the allergic reaction. Current AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) guidelines recommend delaying this vaccine, especially in small breeds, until the CORE vaccines are completed. Most current Leptospira vaccines contain four different serovars: grippotyphosa, canicola, icterohemorrhagica, and pomona. The vaccine is now purified, which may reduce allergic reactions and although titers drop significantly after 6 months, challenge with pathogenic forms of L. icterohemorrhagica and canicola one year after vaccination did not cause disease. Generally, this vaccine is recommended to be given in spring time, especially for dogs that come in contact with wildlife or city rodents.
Lyme Disease (Borreliosis) Vaccines: Lyme Disease in dogs can be prevented by the use of tick prevention and vaccines. The Lyme vaccines have been criticized by some veterinarians as being ineffective. While it is true that some vaccinated dogs do contract the disease, it appears that vaccinated animals are less likely to contract the disease than unvaccinated animals. Vaccination is generally limited to dogs traveling to or living in high prevalence areas.
Canine Influenza Virus (CIV) Vaccine: In May, 2009, the USDA granted a conditional license for the first vaccine against Canine Flu. This vaccine is expected to reduce incidence, severity and duration of the disease but does not necessarily prevent infection altogether. (Conditional license means it has been proven safe with good signs of efficacy, but additional studies are needed to gather more information.
Canine Parainfluenza Vaccine: This old tried and true vaccine comes in a parenteral and intranasal MLV form. It is an effective vaccine in the prevention of this component of the kennel cough complex.
DNA testing - what and why we do it.
Degenerative Myelopathy (DM) is a degenerative disease of the spinal cord, characterized by muscle weakness in the hind limbs, eventually leading to paraplegia
Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Progressive Rod-Cone Degeneration (PRA-prcd c.5G>A) causes degeneration of both rod and cone photoreceptor cells of the retina. Affected dogs initially experience night blindness and loss of peripheral vision around 3-5 years of age. As it progresses, complete blindness will occur
von Willebrand’s Disease Type I (vWD I) is a blood disorder characterized by abnormally-low production of protein found in the vWF blood, which is key for clotting a damaged blood vessel
OFA hip radio-graphic study
Which sex to get
In general the female picks one person to be her best buddy which can learn to jealousy in younger kids. you of course know your situation and kids if relevant.
When we are helping folks with service dogs we find the male to be a little easier overall to work with and train.
Most folks concern about a male can be alleviated by primarily by training while neutering before they learn the 'obnoxious' behavior of the male may help otherwise. No marking - no humping or other male concerns. Although from a medical standpoint I prefer to leave them intact longer for them to get the best benefit of their hormones until bone growth is complete. However, they will have learned to raise a leg for 'outdoor jobs'
In either sex training for good manners in the house is the same.
Either can make and awesome family companion
These are not hard and fast rules as I'm just passing on some observations from over 50 years of dog training
personality and adding the next family member.
adding a female or male? two males will get along fine as long as one or both are neutered. although 2 intact males can get along with nothing in 'season' it is better to have no more then one intact male. as pets it is better to have them all 'fixed'. the male female combo is good and two or more females will have establish who is boss although the resident dog that has been established there will remain boss in all likelihood.
Early Neuter may doubles The Risk Of Hip Dysplasia and other concerns In Dogs
The results of a number of publications are briefly
summarized here regarding the areas of orthopedics, cancer, behavior, and other health considerations. I've condensed a lot if this from veterinary practice news to address the more pertinent facts. I encourage you to rsearch this further when making a decision on when to spay / neuter your pup. I personally will recommend a minimum of 1 year of age.
Orthopedic Considerations
Bitches spayed at 7 weeks had significantly
delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those spayed at
7 months, and those spayed at 7 months had significantly delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those left intact.
In a study of 1444 Golden Retrievers, bitches and dogs spayed or neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered after a year of age.
In a study of 203 agility dogs, the tibia and radius and ulna were significantly longer than the femur and humerus, respectively, in dogs that were spayed or neutered at or prior to 8 months of age as compared to intact dogs.
Several studies have shown that spayed and neutered dogs have a significantly higher prevalence of CCL rupture even when controlling for body size.
Dogs that were neutered at least 6 months prior to a diagnosis of
hip dysplasia were 1.5 times more likely to develop hip dysplasia than
sexually intact dogs.
Spayed/neutered dogs had 3.1 times higher incidence of patellar luxation
Dogs that have been spayed or neutered at or before puberty can
often be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrower
chests and narrower skulls than intact dogs of the same breed This differential
growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months, prior to a dog being spayed or neutered, but the tibia ( which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age) continues to elongate for several months after that point because of the removal of the sex hormones, then the relationship between the femur and tibia will be different than what was genetically determined. This may result in an abnormal angle at the stifle and a longer (and therefore heavier) tibia placing increased stress on the cranial cruciate ligament (of the knee or stifle joint)
It is well known that spayed and neutered dogs are more likely to be overweight or obese than sexually intact dogs, and this can be a contributing factor to orthopedic diseases
Cancer Considerations
Spayed females had more than 5 times greater risk than intact bitches of developing
cardiac hemangiosarcoma and neutered males had 1.6 times higher risk than intact males had of developing cardiac hemangiosarcoma.
Spayed females had 2.2 times increased risk for developing splenic hemangiosarcoma
In a second study,
spayed/neutered dogs had a 2.2 times higher risk of developing
bone cancer than intact dogs.
Neutered dogs had a 2.8 times greater risk for developing any prostate than intact dogs.
Neutered dogs had a 4.3 times higher risk of developing prostate carcinoma
Neutered dogs had a 3.6 higher risk for developing transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder
than intact dogsand a 3 times greater risk of developing any bladder tumor.
Spayed/neutered dogs had more than 4 times greater risk for developing
transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder than intact dogs.
One study indicateda slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle (8% increase), greater risk with two heats (26
% increase) and increased risk with each subsequent heat.
However, a recent systematic review of the publications that advocate neutering to reduce the risk of mammary tumors in dogs indicated that 9 of 13 reports had a high risk of bias and the remaining 4 had a moderate risk of bias. This study concluded that the evidence that neutering reduces the risk of mammary cancer is weak and do not constitute a sound basis for firm recommendations.
Additionally, at the time when several of these studies were conducted (late 1960s),
it was found that incidence rates for all malignant neoplasms were 4/100,000
female dogs. Mammary tumors accounted for half of these tumors, 8/100,000. Thus, the actual overall risk at that time of any bitch getting a mammary tumor was only 0.2%.
In any case, the figures for increased risk of mammary cancer must be compared with the 200 to 400% increased risk of other cancers in spayed females.
While about 30% of mammary cancers are malignant as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early, the prognosis is very good)
This is in comparison to the other cancers listed, such as hemangiosarcoma
and bladder cancer, which are often fatal. Given the balance of
cancer risks listed above, owners should strongly consider leaving the ovaries intact for at least two heat cycles. In addition, the veterinary field should be developing programs for regular examinations including imaging to facilitate early diagnosis of mammary
cancer in all intact female dogs, as has been performed in women for decades.
In 2011, researchers at the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine found that cancer was the most common cause of death in older dogs. (It’s also the leading cause of death for 71 of the 82 breeds studied.)
what your vet says should take precedence over this - I will touch on some of the more common tumors/cancers as we've had several dogs over the past 4 decades with cancer and more with lipomas which while worrisome are not something to panic over -but should be monitored letting your vet know of rapid changes.
Not all tumors in dogs are cancerous, but all of them should be evaluated by your veterinarian.
Lipomas
Christine Swanson, DVM, a veterinary medical oncologist and assistant professor at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State University, calls this benign fatty tumor very common and notes that many different breeds are prone to developing them. Lipomas usually feel like a relatively soft mass that can be moved around underneath a dog’s skin.
They vary in size, and most of the time, they’re not a serious issue. A fine needle aspirate is done to confirm the benign nature of the tumor, and the tumor is usually only removed if it’s bothersome to the dog’s normal movement or activity
Mast Cell Tumors
mast cell tumors are one of the most common type of canine skin tumors. These grow quickly and are usually red and very itchy
Melanoma
This is a form of cancer of the pigmented cells of the skin of dogs, and like melanoma in people, these tumors are typically black or dark brown
Many skin masses are benign, but those in the mouth and at the nail bed can be very aggressive, she adds. In the case of the latter, the toe is typically swollen and may be painful. Following an x-ray, it may be determined that the affected toe must be amputated in order to fully remove the cancerous mass.
The risks with this specific type of melanoma don’t end there. It may metastasize to places such as the lymph nodes in the area and the lungs, liver, or other internal organs. Once evidence of such metastasis has been identified, some combination of surgery, radiation therapy, and immunotherapy (a therapeutic vaccine for canine melanoma has been licensed by the USDA)
Lymphoma
Lethargy, decreased appetite, and coughing may accompany swollen lymph nodes in dogs of all breeds with this type of cancer, although some individuals initially show little in the way of symptoms other than lymph node swelling. this swelling is most noticeable under the jaw, in front of the shoulders, and behind the knees.
A fine needle aspirate and/or tissue biopsy is done to reach a diagnosis. Then, a veterinary oncologist will conduct something called a staging test to determine where else in the body these cells might be. The most common treatment is chemotherapy.
Papilloma
These benign tumors are warts in dogs, and Swanson says they can be uncomfortable and problematic. When this infection develops, multiple hard, pale, cauliflower-like warts are noted typically on the lips, inside the mouth, and around the eyes. The warts can be painful and severe infections can make chewing and swallowing difficult.
Papillomas will go away after a few weeks, sometimes months—though if they’re causing major problems for the dog in question, they can and should be removed by a veterinarian.
These benign tumors are caused by a virus (called papillomavirus) that is transmitted by direct contact with an infected dog or contaminated objects like bedding or toys. While it’s best to keep affected dogs isolated from unaffected ones, the incubation period often lasts months, so by the time symptoms make themselves known, it might have already spread to other dogs in a household.
Behavior Considerations
Early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors, such as mounting. Significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs, with fearful behavior being most common in spayed bitches and aggression in neutered dogs.
Discussion of behavioral considerations
A number of the early studies claiming to show positive behavioral effects of spay/neuter were significantly flawed.
For example, one of the most often quoted publications to support improvements in behavior particularly aggression, after gonadectomy does not actually provide any statistical analysis. Additionally, 88% of owners of dogs in this study stated that their reason for castrating the dog was to attempt to resolve an existing behavior problem. Owners were also surveyed regarding the dog’s behavior a mean of 27 months post castration.
These factors likely introduced a significant amount of bias.
Another performed statistical analysis but showed that the age when the dog was neutered was not correlated with the degree of improvement.
Most critically neither of these two studies included a control group of intact dogs. One of the more important undesirable behavioral effects of spay/neuter was a finding of a significantly lowered energy level. This was shown in a study that was well controlled and examined over 3500 dogs
Other Health Considerations
Female, and sometimes male, dogs that are spayed/neutered before puberty have an increased risk of urinary incontinence and it is more severe in bitches spayed earlier
Spayed female dogs displayed a significantly higher risk of hypothyroidism
when compared to intact females.
A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.
Neutered male and spayed female dogs had higher relative risks of developing hypothyroidism than intact females.
Neutered females had a 22 times increased risk of developing fatal acute
pancreatitis (multivariate analysis) as compared to intact females.
Risk of adverse reactions to vaccines is 27 to 38% greater in neutered dogs as compared to intact.
- I'm presenting a lot of potentially useful information below from training to medical to older dogs to feeding to ... well I tend to ramble so I've used bold headers so you can scan faster or use a control F search feature on your keyboard to find a word.
Vaccinations.
A large debate exist in the dog world as well as with children on what is needed and when as well as potential problems. I'll add some of the research for your consideration and for you to pursue to make your own decisions.
our basic protocol is we consider parvo a very serious disease so all pups will start with that only about 6 weeks old. at 8 to 9 weeks as mothers passed on immunity may be fading and pups are going to new homes where exposure is not necessarily as protected as here they will get the basic pup series starter. your vet will understand the 'alphabet soup' of DH2PPV which is distemper hepatitis adenovirus's para influenza and parvovirus. we do not give leptospirosis vaccine to young pups as one it may interfere with the uptake of distemper which is more serious and lepto can cause a reaction in younger or smaller pups. take the vaccine protocol up with your vet and if you feel the need add it after 12 weeks of age- What size to expect
- Warranty
We offer a congenital defects warranty on top of initial disease warranty. I.e. for problems like crippling hip dysplasia. we've had someone use our warranty once in 40 years - that was for a liver shunt which is developmental not congenital and can happen to any mammal although not evidencing itself until 4 to 6 months of age. - Why a pup from a breeder over a rescue dog
When choosing between the 'pound' and a breeder you can get a good prediction of what your are getting. size looks health temperament. etc.
The potential difference of a pup vs and adult from the 'pound'
You know what the pup will experience with you. while with the adult who may be fine many of those in 'the system' are their for not just their bad luck but issues in their past that could adversely affect how they react to something in the future with your family.
Why one breeder over another
Further thoughts about breeders is how important early socialization and stimulation is. ** see your pups early life section please.
A very big factor is temperament is inherited and as such selection of breeding dogs for us needs to be of the most easy going tractable people oriented dogs. These are family dogs first and foremost! We live with these guys and I am to old to put up with a hyperactive goofball nor do I expect you to. Both of us use a service dog and that potential is part of what we look for in a pup.
Our dogs can always come back if they need to, things happen to dogs and people, job transfer/accident and unfortunately the owners death with the 'estate' not wanting the dog.
While we prefer to help you place your dog rather than cause a 'double bounce' we have had a few over the past four decades returned 'home'. Some have been injuries to the dog people were unable to deal with and we do our best to help them.
We brought them into this world and care what happens to them while on earth. If you have questions at any point in your dogs life let us know and we'll try to provide some guidance. This includes geriatric questions as needed.
Visits
You are welcome to come meet pups/parents ahead of time. Our schedule is normally flexible, as such we try to accommodate your schedule as we can.
you may come visit pups while they are growing. however, we don't let folks touch young pups until they've had their first vaccination in case you've inadvertently touched something somewhere a sick dog or person may gave left some germs. you may look at them and we'll turn them in any direction you like. we just limit touching the young ones.
The miracle of birth
For the people that want to breed their dog so the kids can witness the 'miracle of birth' - rent the video. It is rare but things can happen during a pregnancy and during whelping. Why risk the family pet just to see a birth? Contrary to popular belief having pups is not really a money maker unless you have the time and knowledge to take care of the pups. It is a large responsibility taking the time and care of those young lives. Although it is enjoyable it can be worrisome at times.
can you meet parents
There are reasons the male might not be available on premises, but the mom should certainly be there
We met one 'nutjob' who claimed the 3 week, 8 week and 14 week litters were all the same mom who was pregnant at the time?????
Can you work with your chosen breeder
Talking:
This is a busy place and we do get delayed at times, but we attempt to answer all inquiries in a timely manner.
We prefer email most of the time, but are certainly willing to talk if you prefer and many times it is the best method to get info through both ways. We need to learn what your expectations are for your new friend to advise you which pup may be the best fit. Please note we don't text - old school here and not going to carry a magnifying glass to text.....
Please don't be afraid to ask questions:
The only stupid question is the one you were afraid to ask [mil-spec version, stupid questions beat the H*LL out of stupid mistakes] if we slip and use over-technical language to reply, please ask for clarification. we may ask you to repeat yourself either for clarification for us or because our phone is acting up again. [our land line is iffy at times and cell phones can be 'interesting' in this area [at best]
Pet ownership
carries responsibilities that should not be taken lightly. Pets are family members that need to be cared for throughout their entire lives, not disposable possessions that can be discarded if they become inconvenient. Pets also carry financial responsibilities for housing, a quality diet, and veterinary care. The latter includes routine veterinary examinations, preventive vaccinations, parasite control including heartworm prevention, treatment during an illness or emergency, dental cleanings, and so forth.
The money and time devoted to pet care are substantial, but the rewards are much greater. Research has shown that the bond that can develop between people and animals as a result of owning and caring for a pet has significant social and health benefits see also Introduction to Health and the Human-Animal Bond. Dogs provide companionship, a sense of purpose, and unconditional love. These qualities can especially benefit lonely, elderly, or mentally disturbed people. Research has also shown that pet ownership can prolong both length and quality of life by reducing stress, blood pressure, anxiety, and depression. Under proper supervision, pet ownership also teaches children about responsibility, caring, and commitment.
Heart worm medication / prevention needs to be year round no matter where you live.
heart worm importance of all year round non negotiable. look at these cities for February.
Salt Lake City, Utah, tops the list of heartworm cities for February in the U.S.
Alexandria, Va., Riverside, Calif., and Topeka, Kans. round out the top four
March 15, 2019
Salt Lake City, Utah, was the number one city for heartworms in February according to Companion Animal Parasite Council’s (CAPC’s) top 10 list.
The monthly report warns pet owners, veterinarians, and pet-related service providers of U.S. metropolitan areas with highest percentage increase in positive heartworm tests. CAPC is devoted to monitoring and reporting emerging threats to pets.
“The new CAPC Top 10 Cities Heartworm Report demonstrates heartworm disease—transmitted by mosquitoes—is a national threat to pets who are increasingly vulnerable to this debilitating and potentially fatal illness in most communities across the country,” says CAPC board member, Michael Yabsley, MS, PhD, FRES.
These are the U.S. cities with the highest percentage increase in positive heartworm tests for February:
1) Salt Lake City, Utah
2) Alexandria, Va.
3) Riverside, Calif.
4) Topeka, Kans.
5) El Paso, Tex.
6) Paterson, N.J.
7) Chesapeake, Va.
8) Reno, Nev.
9) Modesto, Calif.
10) Boise, Idaho
“It takes just one heartworm-infected dog in an area to become a reservoir of infection, increasing the number of infected mosquitoes and ultimately spreading the heartworm parasite to unprotected dogs and cats,” Yabsley says. “This is why CAPC recommends monthly heartworm protection and annual testing for both heartworm antigens and microfilariae, regardless of where pets live or travel.”
- Why microchip
we offer microchips at $25 -not everyone wants one so we do not automatically chip pups.
A caution on chips - We've used AVID almost 40 years now. There are others - specifically I need to warn about Pro-ID / Halo chips. we tried some since they offered a smaller chip and 90% migrated within a month to as far back as the tail. one seems to have failed completely as we have scanned toe nail to toe nail and nose to tip of tail. Most shelters and vets will scan a reasonable range of proper implant site. If they don't find a chip they can't help you. Tags can be lost.
Tattoos fade and/or can be altered. The chip would need surgically removed. It is about the size of a small grain of rice and inserted the same way a vaccination is given. We've had pups never notice the 'shot' being far to focused on the doggy cookie.
We do feel it is important as things can happen in life. God forbid you get in a wreck and your panicked dog runs.. the ambulance crew does not know this and may be to busy treating the 2 legs to ask. You say your yard is fenced? Let me relate something that happened to us.. Sheriff came knocking on the door 2am saying he had just hit our horse in the middle of the road. It seems a drunk had woven in and out of our fence about 8 times over the 1/2 mile stretch that fronted that road... ( long story short - he survived although it was quite a recovery and one amazing boy that took his treatments bravely ).
adding part of a recent news clip which reminded me to post this on chips
{{ November 03, 2017
Ten years after their beloved cat went missing in Santa Rosa, one family got the call they’d long been waiting for: He’d been found.Jenifer and her family, who had since moved to Longmont, Colo., were notified that Pilot had been rescued amid the devastation of the wine country fires – severely burned, but alive.A good Samaritan found Pilot on Halloween and brought him to Santa Rosa’s Petcare Veterinary Hospital.
Upon beginning treatment, the veterinary team scanned him for a microchip and, lo and behold, Jenifer's name popped up}} - Your pups early life
all pups are born and raised in the house. no quiet kennel for these guys - they are part of the hustle and bustle of every day life. training and socialization begins early as they are handled every day from birth. Initially it may be just picking them up and holding them a minute. by a couple weeks old they are being touched all over - ears, feet, tail etc. there will be a radio on in their room with a talk or classical station on. the cat has usually visited them and slept with them more than once. by 4 weeks old they are starting to explore their world and their playpen will be in the room where we are most next to a window so they can watch things going on outside and they really do focus on the bird feeder at times as well as the television. the litter will have a variety of different texture toys to play with and tug on. we open their mouths and touch their tongues to start training of being able to take anything away from them. this is important when they find something inappropriate such as a dead bird. ( it's a dog thing). they will have their first toenail trim as well as having their paws touched all over. as a breed that needs grooming pups will be brushed a few times before going home in addition to having the clipper without a blade held against them for the noise and vibration. pups will be weaning about this time also so spending part of the day without mom. if we have another litter of compatible age pups will get to play with non litter mates as well as meet non mom adults. we are observing personalities by now and can advise folks of any particular characteristics being exhibited. at 6 weeks old we have a temperament test for pups to further identify any how a pup reacts to various stimuli. weather permitting pups get some play time outside. part of the noises experienced to help them understand and not be afraid of thunder or backfires may include firecrackers at a safe distance when pups can be outside on the deck. a coaches whistle - clickers - books dropped on the floor - hands clapping - the 1812 overture - etc. we start crate to paper to outside house training as well as some alone practice in a crate to ease the transition to your family. we set the stage for pups to learn and experience life in the big world. what you continue to do in the first couple months with your pup will help make him/her an great family member and good canine citizen. - Suggested shopping list
Suggested shopping list to include toys. We prefer pedigree puppy although any good puppy food should be fine we use pedigree as one of the brands that can be found anywhere. noting purina has changed in recent years and empirical evidence shows the degradation of their foods. Watching several sets of siblings grow over a year on pedigree vs purina has caused us to change our minds on purina products. There are a lot of regional good foods – Bil-jac being one. Basically avoid cost cutters grease balls for dogs…Also recommending cooked chicken livers with meals for a while also = so many good nutrients and fats.
Toys. bottled water for neutral transition from our farm water to you water. Rabbit water bottle in leu of bowls for crate as they learn to drink form one here - avoids playing in the water bowl in their crate. Crate should be a wire suitcase model. The suitcase model folds flat in 30 seconds and can be carried much like a ‘suitcase’, there are many good brands. Plastic crates can absorb odors and offer little ventilation or visibility for pup as well as an excited pup could over heat in one during warm weather. Soft toys such as stuffed toys - fleecy and latex toys are both good. Doggie bones and treats. A product such as nature’s miracle for cleanup. Toys. Plain old table salt is excellent for soaking up faux paux's on the carpet as it is so hydroscopic it dries the wetness up completely leaving no odor nor stain. Slicker brush with the soft tines. Toenail trimmer. More toys. Crock style or non-tipping food and water bowls. Ceramic crock or stainless steel preferred. Baby gate - the wood slat type is less climbable than the mesh. Puppy pee pads. An ‘exercise’ pen can be useful for more freedom than the crate without having run of the house yet – heights vary so consider the size you pup will be at 3 to 4 while still in training. More toys.....
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Feeding
We wet dry kibble with hot water to let is soften ahead of time and dish it out until pups and moms have a little left over so we know all got enough to eat. This way a smaller pup in the litter will not get left out of dinner by the food being difficult to chew. While a dog should not live on canned food it has its benefits as a treat and an encouragement to eat for smaller pups due to being soft and " smelly ". as with the dry food a good quality is important. there are lots of good foods on the market. Bil-jac is regional to the Midwest as an example of another good food. their frozen food appeals to dogs that are off their feed. ( It stinks enough.. lol)
As such I can’t tell you exactly how much to feed your pup but you can figure that out for yourself within a couple meals. You may want to continue wetting pups food for the first week for two meals a day and offer dry for in between to get pup switched to dry food as they can handle it.
NO cows milk for pups. a little goats milk or goat milk replacer powder added to the food can help the younger smaller pups. watch for milk 'diarrhea' as dogs past a certain age do not always tolerate milk well. NO cheese for young pups. scrambled eggs are good. cooked chicken livers are tasty ( no seasoning). liquid in is most important - more so than food to a point so be sure your pup has plenty of fresh water available. A low sodium broth can encourage the reluctant pup still adjusting to a new world.
For pups over about 3 lbs you can remove all food and water two hours before bedtime and last chance for potty to help the pup make it overnight physically. Most all pups should be able to sleep over night by about 10 weeks old. Our schedule is 10 pm to 6 am for pup sleep time. Get the pup used to your schedule not the other way around. If you get up early don’t wait for pup to get up to go out – rouse them out of bed and go.
Smaller lighter pups - hypoglycemia and your pup
Please be aware that smaller, younger or lighter weight pups need their 'down' time like young kids. the main concern which while rare is serious - hypoglycemia. in short to much energy going out and not enough coming in. the body will take needed energy from sugars ( glucose ) in the blood if needed. this energy is very important to brain function among other things. someone that is ( PUP or people ) hypoglycemic can be weak and shaky to even losing consciousness. a quick help is corn syrup rubbed on the gums and tongue. you probably know someone with diabetes ( a glucose control disease ) while hypoglycemia is not always related to diabetes I mention this to illustrate the importance or energy in for energy out an rest for small pups and small humans -
What Stools Can Tell You About Your Dog’s Health
(we've gotten strange looks from friends for commenting on what nice poop - seriously as breeders / owners we watch these things. - yes the exciting times watching dogs 'dump' )
The causes for acute diarrhea in the absence of other signs are varied and include dietary indiscretion (for example: getting into the garbage), gastrointestinal bacteria including Campylobacter, and GI parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, and protozoal infections. In most cases of acute, self-limiting diarrhea, a cause is never identified.
Many things can cause diarrhea or, less frequently, constipation. Some things, like eating too much grass, are not serious at all. Others can be a sign of a life-threatening problem, such as an indigestible object (like a rock) lodged in the stomach, or a disease like cancer.
If your dog seems otherwise normal, and he is currently on monthly parasite preventative medication, then symptomatic treatment at home is appropriate. Usually most diarrhea will run its course within two to four days, although in some cases, it can last longer. If there are any other signs of illness like vomiting, loss of appetite, depression, or pain, a veterinary trip is in order.
The consistency and color of diarrhea reveals a lot about the cause of the problem and what is happening in your dog. Take note of the color, consistency, and anything else that might help when you describe the symptoms to your veterinaarian. In most cases, diarrhea will resolve after a few days of home treatment, but it’s a good idea to give your vet a call if it continues for a long period or has any one of several signs that may point to a serious problem.
a few things to note
Dietary indiscretion: Eating too much, eating garbage, or spoiled food. There’s actually a name for it in veterinary circles—“garbage toxicosis” or “garbage gut.”
some dogs may have a food intolerance or allergies to some ingredients. foods may have different bases such as rice, corn even one like bil-jac is more beet based. see my notes on grain free ( not all good )
regional foods and different companies may have different base mixes. I had one dog could not tolerate red dye. a customer has a dog that will lose her hair with chicken. you will learn your dogs needs as they can vary just like people. most get along fine on about any decent food.
Poisonous substances or plants
Swallowing an indigestible foreign body, like a toy, socks, sticks. one of our customers had to have surgery after shredding and eating a rope bone. we had one swallow a fish hook at the lake since she liked to eat worms (no acounting for some dogs taste). that passed after a few days of feeding her a lot of bread to bulk thnigs up and help it pass. such fun hosing down her stools until we found the hook. it beat the alternative of surgery which could have been a real possibiity
diarrhea that develops suddenly in an otherwise healthy dog is often due to scavenging behavior, Stress or emotional upset can upset a dog just like it an people. a sudden change in diet, or viral, Bacterial infections, such as salmonella or parasitic infections.
Change in diet: It may take a few days for a dog’s digestive system to adapt to new proteins. when changing your dogs diet mix the new food with the old in greater purportions over a week at least to have less impact on your dogs system.
Illnesses, such as kidney and liver disease, colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, and cancer
Antibiotics and other medications can kill the beneficial bacteria in you or your dogs digestive tract. consider adding a probiotic or live culture yogurt
More chronic diarrhea can be caused by dietary allergies or intolerances, stress, some types of parasites (e.g., Giardia, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms), bacterial infections, pancreatic disease, inflammatory bowel disease, irritable bowel syndrome, some types of cancer, and diseases outside of the gastrointestinal tract (e.g., liver failure or heart disease). These type of health issues will need to be discussed with your veterinarian and can require prescription pet medication.
if your dog is very young, very old, has a preexisting health condition, call your veterinarian for advice on how to handle the diarrhea. These individuals can become severely debilitated even when suffering from relatively mild diarrhea. Also, call your veterinarian if your dog’s diarrhea is frequent and/or very watery - contains more than just a streak of blood - is dark and tarry or if your dog is vomiting profusely, lethargic, depressed, and/or is in pain. These can be signs of potentially serious health conditions.
Home Remedies
Make sure the dog has access to plenty of clean water to avoid dehydration. Encourage the dog to drink. If needed, offer dilute chicken, beef broth or Pedialyte in addition to the water.
Give the dog a small meal of boiled white meat chicken (no bones or skin) and white rice. This can be the dog's diet until the stool consistency returns to normal.
If the diarrhea continues for more than 3 days or your dog’s condition worsens at any time, call your vet
A great many cases are mild and may be treated without a trip to the office. They may respond to a regimen of very basic treatments such as.
Fasting
Withholding food for 12 to 24 hours, and providing water in small amounts frequently, can clear the cause of the upset and allow the gastrointestinal tract to settle. It’s usually the first line of attack for the runs. Before you decide on a fast, be sure that your dog is healthy enough to endure it. Puppies, and elderly dogs, for example, need nutrients. Also, a fast may not be appropriate for little dogs, who do not have the physical reserves of their larger cousins.
Diarrhea can lead to dehydration, so make sure to give your dog access to water at all times. Many people also offer unflavored Pedialyte to maintain electrolyte balance. diluted chicken broth may be more palatable - watch of for the salted kind if buying pre -made broth.
After a fast, food is usually introduced slowly and many people start with binders, which can normalize stool consistency. Some tried-and-true methods include:
Rice water: Boil high-quality rice in a lot of water, remove the grains, and offer the dog the creamy white soup that’s left. A splash of broth or a bit baby food will make it more palatable.
White rice - cooked a tad dry to help absorb moisture in your dogs or yours... digestive tract. a little lean cooked hamburgr or chicken without the skin can make it more enticing.
Canned pumpkin (plain, not prepared pie filling) is effective for both diarrhea and constipation. Probiotics, live bacteria that aid digestion (these are also found in yogurt - read the lable for live culture) don't give a lot as most dogs are lactose intolerant past early puppyhood.
Boiled potatoes, without skin
Plain protein sources such as egg (prepared with no butter or oil) or chicken (without skin)
Herbs, such as fennel, ginger or papaya have gut-soothing properties
Specially-formulated dog foods: Some manufacturers offer foods that can sooth stomach problems. You may need to obtain these from your vet.
Over-the-counter medications for humans may also be effective for doggie diarrhea, but should be given with caution and you should talk to your vet before using them. kaopectate is a good one. an old remedy is unflavored 'jello' such as knox gelatin to drink before it 'sets up'
Avoid using human remedies such as loperamide, also called Immodium. This medication has an opioid in it, and it is easy to overdose a dog unintentionally.
If your dog continues to do well other than diarrhea, three to four days of at-home treatment is appropriate.
Methods that work for one dog may not help another, so you might need to do a little experimentation to find the right formula. It might also be helpful to write down what works and what doesn’t so you’ll know what to do the next time you find yourself mopping up a mess.
Once you find a recovery diet that agree with your dog, and doesn’t cause a relapse, you can slowly increase the portions over a period of days, and then start to add small quantities of your dog’s regular food, until things are back to normal.
Feeding a sick dog.
Decreased appetite, upset stomach, diarrhea, and vomiting make caring for a sick dog stressful for both you and your pet. A bland diet can help relieve some of these symptoms while also giving your dog the nutrition he needs to recover.
some recipes for dogs with mild stomach upset, including gas, nausea, constipation, and diarrhea. note - checking with your vet to rule out anything more serious that the occasional off day or food sensitivity is prudent
chicken and rice for dogs
Chicken and rice are prime ingredients in many dog foods, and these mild foods sit well on upset canine stomachs. Plus, this bland meal is easy to prepare. All you need are boneless, skinless chicken breasts and rice. White rice is lower in nutritional value than brown rice, but its blandness makes it more suitable for upset stomachs. Oils, butter, and added seasonings can irritate your dog’s stomach and make the problem worse, so stick with plain boiled chicken and rice. Make sure the chicken is cooked thoroughly and cut or shred it into small, bite-sized pieces for your dog, since enthusiastic canines might choke on this unexpected treat.
** see my notes on how we prepare chicken for us and the dogs
chicken breast
Shredded chicken is easy on upset stomachs and acts as a huge eating incentive for dogs with decreased appetites. Plain, unseasoned, boiled, shredded chicken is easy to digest and is packed with essential vitamins, minerals, fats, and amino acids, making it a great snack for dogs feeling under the weather. Chicken keeps in the fridge for three-to-four days, or you can freeze it for two-to-six months. or can it for years to come.
sweet potatoes
Dogs love this orange vegetable. Not only is it a great treat, but it also has many health benefits. Sweet potatoes are frequently used in dog food products because they are high in fiber and full of vitamin B6, vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium, and manganese.
The fiber in sweet potatoes helps regulate dogs with intestinal difficulties like loose stools or constipation. Unseasoned, plain, peeled, cooked, and mashed sweet potatoes make a healthy addition to your pet’s existing diet. Talk to your vet about how much sweet potato to feed your dog. If you plan on continuing to use sweet potatoes as a dietary supplement, scoop them into tablespoon-size balls and freeze them for convenience.
Pumpkin
Pumpkin and sweet potato have similar digestive health benefits. Like sweet potatoes, pumpkin is also high in fiber, which helps regulate canine digestive systems. Cooked, peeled, unsalted, and unseasoned pumpkin contains vitamin E, thiamin, niacin, vitamin B6, folate, iron, magnesium, phosphorous, dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin C, riboflavin, potassium, copper, and manganese, giving your dog a nutritional boost along with a little digestive help.
Adding pumpkin to your dog’s meal usually helps regulate mild constipation. Veterinarians recommend one to four tablespoons of pumpkin, depending on your dog’s size. Canned pumpkin is a convenient alternative to preparing pumpkin yourself, as long as it is unseasoned. Feeding your dog a can of pumpkin pie filling might end up sending you back to the vet, as the spices and sugars could irritate your dog’s stomach and cause further complications.
Bone Broth
Bone broth is a very mild, liquid meal that sits easily in upset canine stomachs. It is also a nutritious and delicious way to add moisture and flavor to dry food and encourage dogs with reduced appetites to eat. To make a bone broth for dogs, fill a crock-pot with beef marrow bones or bones with plenty of joints, like turkey and chicken legs. Cover the bones with 2-3 inches of water, cover, and cook on low for 20-24 hours. ( pressure cooking speeds this process greatly ) - ( and for your canning folks - making a big batch and putting some up for later use for you or your dog as a nicety to have on the shelf )
Let the broth cool for 2-to-3 hours in the fridge to let the fat form a hardened layer at the top. Scoop it off and store the jelly-like broth in the refrigerator. If you want to use the broth to add moisture to dry food, microwave the broth just long enough for it to go from a semi-solid jelly to a liquid, but not long enough to get hot, as hot broths can burn your dog’s mouth. Freeze the broth in small containers like an ice cube tray for later use.
While bone broth is full of healthy bone marrow, cooked small bones themselves most dangerous. Make sure you remove all of the bones from your broth before serving. Save yourself a trip to the emergency room and strain the broth just to make sure no small bones escaped your notice. HOWEVER... pressure cooking bones to the point the crush easily between your fingers makes them a safe and nutritious alternative
Baby Food
Veterinary emergency hospitals often use certain types of baby food to feed the dogs in their care. Baby food is very easy to swallow and digest and is a great way to give oral medications. Veterinarians recommend feeding Stage II meat-based baby foods like chicken, lamb, and turkey, as long as the baby food does not contain any garlic or onion powder.- canning chicken
we raise most of our own food organically since I am admittedly anti-chemical to a point. we use those large turkey cookers to cook perhaps a dozen chickens over night ( you can use store bought chicken hopefully finding a nice sale )
basic steps are
cook until practically falling off the bone
let cool
de-bone
can the meat - see most universities canning procedures for caning meat and adjust for your altitude. 75 minutes a pint and 90 a quart. look up the pressure for your altitude.
toss remaining skin - bones - meat stuck to bones - etc into your pressure cooker. what you want is the bones to crush easily between your fingers.
strain broth off and can separately for you or your dogs use. can or freeze the rest. noting a salmon can with the sloped side make an easy to remove "hockey puck" frozen treat for your dog. we save the canned product to mix in with some rice or barley or? for cooking in the winter on the wood stove to give the dogs a warm treat meal.
Working folks
Folks work –that is a fact of modern life. Whether you are single or both adults in the house work should not preclude you from adding a wonderful 4 legged friend to your family. One of the simplest ways to accomplish this is with a baby gate or play area marking a smaller area for pup that is tiled or similarly floored to facilitate clean up. During the time you can not be home leave the pup in this area with newspapers down – food and water – toys and a radio on a classical or talk station for ‘company’. Pups normally use one area away from their food and toys as a ‘bathroom;’ spot – so you will be able to shrink the area that needs newspaper and / or pee pads to one part of the area you give pup as pup learns and grows. When you are home continue with normal crate training. As pup becomes more physically able to control bodily functions you will be able to leave pup in the crate for longer periods or reach that time you feel pup is trust-able with the house when you are not there.
crating
For the first nights while pup is learning to sleep all night start with the crate by the bed so you can hear pup ask to go potty. Don’t reward the pup for whining just to be held as you will create a monster. You will soon learn the difference between the ‘I wanna sleep in the big bed whine’ and the ‘I gotta go’ whine. Do talk to pup – sooth pup – reassure them you are there – even hang a few fingers into the crate. Don’t tolerate excessive whining or barking. Let pup know the NO had a meaning. Pup raising is like kid raising in that it is 99.9% good boy and .01% don’t ever think about that again. Only thing is pups talk back less – learn quicker (relatively) and are much cheaper to send to college.
Going outside
General rule is go outside - have what we call a certifiably empty pup (you have witnessed the emptying) - then allow supervised house time.
Use the same door to go out for potty and the same spot in the yard. Using the same door and spot provided consistency for the pup. The same spot in the yard will smell ‘right’ to the pup after being used a few times. I do like paper or pee pads by that door for back up use as it is quicker to get the pup there in the middle of a mistake than on outside. In addition the first couple weeks until pup is sleeping all night the papers by the door are easier than going outside for some folks. If you are not paying attention to the pup during supervised house time (such as the phone rang) and pup needs to go he can go to 'the' door and use the papers to not be in trouble. The idea is - the floor is a bad pup - the papers a good pup boy and outside a great pup. In a few weeks when you both know papers are fine they become a no comment. Out side is where to go - the floor is still wrong but papers keep pup out of trouble. Another good thing to try is bell training. Hang some Christmas type bells by the door and ring them with the pups paw or nose to ‘ask’ to go out. Most dogs sit by the door and give the ‘look’ before leaving a deposit because you didn’t catch that signal. Some bark some dig at the door but the bells can let you know he needs out. If it has only been 15 minutes and you can not supervise pup put him back in the crate. If it has been 45 minutes do be fair about go back outside before crating pup again.
A wire crate offers full visibility of the family for the pup. Wire crates have a pan to pull out for cleaning while a plastic crate can not only absorb odors but it is a bear to clean. Plastic crates may feel more den like and may be fine for an adult but I prefer the wire crate for the basic house training crate. An over excited dog could over heat in a plastic crate the wrong time of year – a rare possibility but it exists. Get the suitcase model as just like it sounds it folds down to a suitcase configuration in seconds for ease of transport. Taking the crate up and down stairs or in the car is much easier flat.
Consider a blanket over the crate is for cooler nights and those are coming up soon. Some dogs like to pull the blanket into the crate others respect it. One thing that works well with pups since they like to chew is to get a small cardboard (pup size) box and give them an old towel or shirt for bedding. The box cuts drafts and the towel is easy to wash or disposable if it gets chewed.
Puppy-Proofing Outdoors
Fence the yard, if possible. It’s best to have a fence that is high enough to prevent the puppy from jumping over it, with no holes to crawl through.
Remove or fence around toxic plants in your yard to prevent your pup from mistaking them for a snack. see my list of plants and other bad things for dogs to ingest.
Put a fence around in-ground pools. Pools are a big hazard for puppies. A fence surrounding the pool will prevent the puppy from accidentally falling in. teach your pup pool safety as well. teach them where to steps are and how to swim. not all dogs are natural swimmers althgouth they are adept learners they need to learn to use all 4 feet. this applies not to just pools but ponds or lake side homes.
Designate a puppy area. Set aside a portion of the yard for the puppy to use as his bathroom area.
Keep the lawn trimmed and brush under control. Ticks are more likely to hide in tall grasses and latch onto your pup.
Keep your dog away from the yard if it has recently been treated with fertilizers, pesticides, or insecticides. Try to avoid using insecticides because the chemicals can be very harmful to your puppy.
Be wary of heat. Avoid keeping your dog outside when it is hot, and always have shade and cool water available
Supervise your puppy. Young puppies should not be left outside alone. This is the time to play with them and train them, and to protect them from predators, heatstroke, and other hazards.
Puppy-Proofing Indoors
Unplug electrical cords, move them out of reach, or string them through cord concealers. These chewing hazards can cause burns to the mouth or electrical shock.
be aware of dropped foods - IE sugarless gum, chocolate, raisins, and other foods that are bad for your dog.
Keep cleaning supplies in high cabinets or secured behind doors with childproof latches. When using them, make sure that the puppy is kept out of the area, so he won’t be affected by the vapors given off by chemicals.
Avoid keeping medications, even in pill bottles or dispensers, on low tables, bathroom counters, or night tables, where the puppy can easily get to them.
Keep toilet lids closed, so the puppy won’t drink out of the toilet or fall in.
Keep doors and windows closed at all times, so the puppy can’t escape or fall out, and secure the cords that raise blinds, so they won’t get caught around the puppy’s neck. One lady years ago sent a picture of her pup tangled in the venition blinds, she caught before he was injured - just paniced both of them.
same as your two legged kids - beware of choking hazards — such as coins, paper clips, rubber bands, and jewelry — to prevent the puppy from choking on them.
Keep all sharp objects out of your dog’s reach. Including but not limited to knives, scissors, razors, food or soda cans and tools.
Secure trashcans. Puppies are attracted to the smells coming from garbage, which can upset their tummies or even be poisonous.
Move poisonous houseplants, so the puppy can’t eat them.
Taking 'meds'
For pills - put it as far back in pups mouth as you can - hold mouth gently closed. You best option at this point is to hold something you know pup wants right in front of their nose or even smear a little peanut butter on the nose or roof of the pups mouth. When the tongue comes out the pill goes down - pups can't help it. Liquid - open mouth - stick syringe in and squirt it far back in the mouth. Holding the pups head up so the liquid has to run down help makes it easier. You can sit on the floor and hold pup between your knees if you have to. Our dogs have learned we open their mouth - hold their head up - drop the pills way back of the mouth and tell them to stick out their tongue with the reward of a doggie cookie coming.
Walking with pup around
Next step is for you to learn the pup walking shuffle. Akin to the boot scooting shuffle but you do not lift your feet completely off the ground while a pup is about.
within two weeks pup will be basically over thinking your feet - socks - toes - pant legs - anything with in reach is a chew toy to be pounced upon.
Basic obedience training
is a very important step in your and your pups life. Through training you will have a dog you can live with. Your dog will respect you and you will bond better with your dog. Early training stimulates the pups mind the same as a child learning things sets the course for a life time of learning.
I hope to give an overview of training to help you get started. This is not a substitute for joining an obedience class where your dog can socialize with other people and dogs, and you can get first hand correction as needed. But, to get you started in the right direction. It can serve as the full course but you will lose the benefits gained from interaction.- choose a collar for your pup. I really like one called a half check or martingale as it can
- not choke the pup nor be slipped off over the head.
- I personally don't care for harnesses as they can be slipped out of and can chafe under the legs or chest.
Next step is to let the pup drag the leash around the room a little to get used to the weight of it and the feel. This is done a little at a time during regular house play time, but should of course be supervised. You may then hold the leash to give the pup the idea of confinement. He will most likely fight it wanting to go his own way. With a young pup tell him no and reassure him he is not choking. When he quits fighting you may let him off the leash.
ALWAYS end all training sessions on a good note. When the pup has done something right is a good time to praise him and end the session.
Once your pup is not fighting the buckle collar it is time to try him on the chain collar. The chain collar always go on so it will release with the pup on your left. (it is customary to walk the pup on your left side so training is done that way ).
To correct your pup give a quick pull on the leash coupled with the correction needed ( e.g. sit ) and an immediate release of the tension on the collar.
The first lesson is usually heel. To heel is to have the pup walking along beside you - not in front or lagging behind. (show standards would be the shoulder of the dog in line with the seam on your pants leg at normal standing position ) If your pup gets out in front of you give him a correction along with the heel command and bring him back into the area he should be in. The same applies to lagging behind. When he has walked along with you in the correct manner for a few feet stop and praise him and perhaps offer a goody (do not give a snack every time) then begin walking again. Soon you should be walking together just fine. Some dogs when first starting out will try to make you think you are killing them with the leash. You must make them walk along even if it is a fight at first or you will not have complete control over your pup. (Lack of control could result in the dog yanking the leash from your hand and chasing a cat under a semi truck.)
The next lesson is normally sit. The have your pup sit give a small jerk upwards on the collar along with the command sit. You may have to push down on your pup’s rear also in the beginning. Many people like to have their dogs sit every time they stop while walking. We are not going for show standards here but it is a good idea.
The down or lay command is next. While facing your dog tell him to down with a small yank downward with the leash. You may have to help by pulling yours dogs front legs forward or pushing down on their shoulders.
Stay is perhaps the hardest lesson of all but can also be the most important thing you will ever teach your dog. Tell your pup to stay. Put a hand in front of his face and back away from him, reinforcing the stay command. Try to get to the end of the leash away and walk back to him to tell him he was good.
You can get a long leash for this training (e.g. 30 foot for training purposes) so you may get farther away and back. You could tie the leash to something and walk away a little farther or just drop the leash and back away. It is good to walk all the way around the pup while he is on stay. You may spend good deal of time taking your pup back to where he was told to stay and redoing the lesson until you can end on a good stay. I like to be able to walk a good 50 feet away and back on stay. You will also want sit-stay and down-stay.
As you and your pup progress with training you should be able to forgo the yank on the collar and just use verbal commands only. and visa versa. Once your dog is doing well with the basic commands it is time to mix them. Walk away telling him to stay then call him to heel. when heeling turn towards to dog so he has to slow down for your turn and then turn away so he has to hurry to stay at your side. Finally the ideal would be to work without the leash through all the commands mixing them. You should be able to tell your dog to stay - walk away hundred feet and tell him to ‘come’ stop him part way to down and then come and then sit until he gets to you and heels at your side.
There are many good books on the market. I prefer the Kohlers Method of Dog Training that has been around for many years as it covers all the basics for many breeds. He also has training books on other aspects
how to reward or get your pups attetion during training sessions- short answer is treats are good - however do not use exclusively as smart dogs will expect it. initially food treats are good - but mix it up later with a good boy, a belly rub etc so the food is not required for a response. treats will depend on your dog - something dry to keep in your pocket best. not cheese or greasy things. dollar trees is your friend there - my guys like the little snausage or fake steak pieces more then the curly fake jerky. dogs differ so see what he likes
clicker training is good but I prefer s whistle or finger snap or tongue click as those are Always with you while a clicker may not be or has to be dug out of your pocket.
my service dog works on a subtle set of clues from me in public - most folks never catch and the ones that do are amazed - some say so but it is interesting how the subject in a 'room' changes to dogs... lol - like at a convention or in a restaurant - Monthly heartguard
- flea and tick medicine warning - just an FYI
- sEPT 2018 the U.S. Food and Drug Administration put out a frightening warning for pet owners and vets: certain flea and tick medications—isoxazoline class drugs—have the potential to cause seizures and other neurological effects in cats and dogs. But even if they're currently taking those medications, this warning doesn't necessarily mean your precious pet is in danger. Here's what you need to know.
Which medicines are covered in the warning?
Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard, and Simparica are the FDA-approved drugs in the isoxazoline class. Those are the only drugs included in this warning. All of these medications are chewable tablets; folks who rely on spot-on pesticides such as Frontline or Advantage are 100 percent in the clear. There are also several brands of tablets that are not in the isoxazoline class, and therefore not included in this warning. Don't assume this warning automatically means your pet is at risk, especially if they haven't taken the four drugs listed above.
What does this warning actually mean?
The FDA's warning does not mean your pet is going to have a seizure, even if they're taking these drugs. According to the FDA, most dogs and cats do not have adverse reactions to isoxazoline. They "can and have been safely used in the majority of dogs and cats," according to the agency's statement. But because there have been reports of muscle tremors, ataxia (the loss of control of bodily movements), and seizures even in animals with no prior history of such problems, the agency will have manufacturers include warnings of these potential side-effects on drug packaging.
https://www.popsci.com/flea-tick-seizure-fda
Dog toothpaste comes in several canine-friendly flavors, like peanut butter and chicken, and both child-sized toothbrushes with soft bristles or finger brushes are appropriate to use when cleaning your dog’s teeth at home. Human toothpaste, however, contains ingredients like xylitol, which is toxic to dogs and should be avoided.
Your veterinarian’s insistence that your canine companion needs a dental cleaning addresses far more than the issue of a dog’s stinky breath. Poor dental hygiene can result in a host of medical problems. Some of the more common issues are gingivitis, periodontal disease, tooth loss, infection, and difficulty eating.
Plaque builds up on canine teeth, just like it does on human teeth. Over time, a buildup of plaque can lead to inflammation of the gums, called gingivitis. Dogs with gingivitis may have red, inflamed gums that bleed easily, and you may also notice bad breath. If left untreated, gingivitis can lead to periodontitis.
Periodontitis can cause destruction to the connective tissues surrounding the tooth and can also damage the bone. Most concerning, however, is the detrimental effects periodontitis can have on your dog’s heart, kidneys, and liver.
Dogs can also benefit from dental cleanings at the vet’s office. These in-depth procedures take place under anesthesia and remove plaque below the gum line, where toothbrushes can’t reach. Dental cleanings are especially important for dog breeds with genetic predispositions for dental disease, like many small breeds, or dogs fed wet food.
Dog colds are not contagious to humans.
Zoonotic diseases can be spread between animals and people. You can’t catch a cold from your dog, any more than your dog can pick up a human strain of a cold virus from you. However, dog colds and influenza are highly contagious between dogs, which means we have to be careful not to help transmit the germs.
Colds spread through saliva and aerosol droplets. If you’ve been in contact with a sick dog, you could bring those germs home to your own pups on your hands or clothing. Letting your dog drink out of an infected dog’s water bowl or play with infected toys also increases the risk of contagion. While colds are rarely life-threatening, they can pose risks for very young and very old dogs as they can in humans , as well as canines with suppressed immune systems. - Identification
In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified.
Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots. If you plan on being away for more than a few days, consider purchasing a second identification tag giving the location and phone number of your vacation spot.
Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip. your vet can hep you with that or you can buy your own online and 'implant' it - - it is just like a shot over the shoulder blades but has the chip instead of liquid. I recommend avid as one of the best chips. AKC has their own chip they sell. avoid ++++++++++ as we tried them and they migrated far away from site normally checked.
Bring a recent picture of your dog along with you, as well as a copy of his health records listing all of his recent vaccinations.
A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car or camper and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet stores and online.
Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn, and lie down. for most uses I recommend a wire suitcase model crate. see the airlines rules on what they require.
Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.
Be prepared for an emergency if there’s a situation where your dog needs medical attention, you need to be prepared with the necessary information on hand - especially true of any medical concerns out of the ordinary for your dog.
Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
Avoid carsickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
Keep the car well ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks is not only a good idea for you but for your dog as well. Be sure to clean up after your dog. military protocol is 15 minute break every 2 to 3 hours or every 100 - 150 miles driving - whichever is shorter.
Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog
Bring your dog to the veterinarian for a checkup before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up-to-date; take shot records with you. A health certificate within 10 days of travel are required for airline travel for dogs as 'cargo'. = check with the airlines about small dogs as carry-on. there is usually a fee and will require a soft sided crate but don't usually require the health certificate. be sure the airlines knows when booking as seating arrangement will be adjusted accordingly. service dogs are the exception to the normal size / crate requirement in the cabin - noting a very large dog or flight over 8 hours duration will have further requirements.
When traveling by plane, plan to visit your veterinarian before your trip. Certification of health must be provided to the airline dated no more than 10 days before travel. Rabies certificates are also required for dogs over 12 weeks old. Your dog should be at least 8 weeks old.
Airlines make it clear that it is the owner’s responsibility to verify the dog’s health and ability to fly. Ask your veterinarian if it would be best for your dog to be tranquilized for the trip. I have to make the point as cargo they ask if the dog has been sedated and will possibly turn you down if the dog is sedated - possible exception with veterinarian note. check ahead of time on that one. Also be sure to check the temperature of the flight’s starting point and destination; it may be too hot or too cold to be safe for your dog.
Federal regulations prohibit shipping live animals as excess baggage or cargo if an animal will be exposed to temperatures that are below 25 degrees Fahrenheit or above 85 degrees Fahrenheit for more than two hours before departure, at arrival, or while making connections. - According to American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), air transport of sedated pets may be fatal. Over-sedation is the most frequent cause of animal deaths during airline transport and accounts for almost half of all deaths. Except in unusual circumstances, veterinarians should not dispense sedatives for animals that are to be transported. Little is known about the effects of sedation on animals that are under the stress of transportation and enclosed in cages at 8,000 feet or higher, the altitude at which cargo holds are pressurized. Additionally, some animals react abnormally to sedatives.
Although animals may be excitable while being handled during the trip to the airport and prior to loading, they probably revert to a quiescent resting state in the dark, closed cargo hold, and the sedatives may have an excessive effect. JAVMA, Vol 207, No.l 6, September 15, 1995 "An animal's natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium is altered under sedation," noted Dr. Patricia Olson, a director of the American Humane Association (AHA). "When the kennel is moved, a sedated animal may not be able to brace and prevent injury." Increased altitude can also create respiratory and cardiovascular problems for dogs and cats that are sedated or tranquilized. Brachycephalic (pug or snub nosed) dogs and cats are especially affected. Insight, May/June 1997
Rather than tranquilizing, pre-condition your pet to its travel container. According to the Air Transport Association, "As far in advance of the trip as possible, let your pet get to know the flight kennel. Veterinarians recommend leaving it open in the house with an old sock or other familiar object inside so that your pet will spend time in the kennel. It is important for your dog or cat to be as relaxed as possible during the flight." "Air Travel for your Dog or Cat", Air Transport Assn of America, Sept 1991 From the International Air Transport Association: "The airline industry continues to warn owners and veterinarians against the use of sedatives/tranquilizers for dogs and cats being transported by air.
The effect of sedating drugs are unpredictable at air pressures inside an aircraft, which are equivalent to 8,000 ft altitude. At this pressure, the physiologic changes from sedatives/tranquilizers may be enhanced. There have been a number of instances where sedated pets traveling by air needed veterinary care to recover from the sedation. Some pets could not be revived. Occasionally, owners have given repeated doses to ensure a comfortable journey for their pet or when sedation did not follow a single dose. When questioned by airline personnel, many owners claim that their veterinarians had advised them to do so. Although sedatives/tranquilizers should never be repeated for animals traveling by air, sedated pets may have adverse reactions in pressurized aircraft even when single doses are administered at recommended dosages.
Remember that each airline has its own variations on regulations and services. For example, if your crate doesn’t meet its requirements, the airline may not allow you to use it. They may, however, allow your dog in the passenger cabin if your soft sided carrier fits under the seat in front of you.
When making your reservations, you must make reservations for your dog. There are restrictions on the number of animals permitted on each flight. They are accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.
If you plan to travel by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Only dogs under 20 pounds are permitted on Amtrak trains (There is also a $25 fee). Dogs are not allowed on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.
You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.
Camping traveling with pups
** a quick caveat - beware of pups food intake and downtime requirements. please see my notes on hypoglycemia
Some folks like to pick up their pups as part of a trip. a few suggestions to help that process with a puppy in addition to some comments on camping / traveling in general with your dog(s)
I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking. the same food they are used for the same reasons. You can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc tailored for your needs
Watch water consumption-Dogs can not cool themselves off nearly as efficiently as humans, so be sure and keep you dog well hydrated. Where us homo sapiens have sweat glands all over our bodies, not so for our beloved canines.
Keep the air conditioner or heat on when leaving your dog unattended
If you’re staying in an area with a warm climate, have a backup system in place for keeping your dog cool in case of power failure or an A/C malfunction while you’re gone.
there are 'apps' and sensors available that will alert you to your cell phone of temperature changes in your camper. try a search (camper temperature monitor for pets ) to learn more. I have a 'dumb' phone so can't offer an opinion based on experience. please feel free to advise me of options and suggestions on any dog product.
Always leave the air vents open with the fans on and beware of newer ventilation fans with built-in sensors that automatically shut vents if it rains. If your RV has these sensors, disable them before leaving your dog alone in the RV. Also, be sure to set out plenty of water before you leave. for the dog in a crate add a water bottle. my favorite being the dog version o9f a rabbit bottle by lixit.
bring a crate that can contain your dog safely in your camper. a freaked out dog can destroy a camper and even escape. if a crate not part of your hoe routine train your dog the the crate ahead of time. A spare bunk or even a dog bed stashed under the dinette table also make great spaces where your pup can go to relax and feel safe.
Bring comforts from home: Providing your pooch with a favorite blanket or toy will help it settle in to your home away from home. And be sure to keep favorite treats on hand for rewarding good behavior.
Clean up after your pet: Again, this is not only considerate, it’s a requirement in most campgrounds. Even if you’re dry-docking in the wilderness, picking up after your pup is better for the environment and the surrounding wildlife
Locate the nearest storm shelter: Be sure your campground’s shelter allows pets, and keep a sharp eye on the weather reports, especially in areas prevalent for tornadoes or hurricanes. see emergency plans elsewhere on my FAQ section.
Help your dog be a quiet neighbor: If your companion is prone to barking at the slightest disturbance, try using a fan or white noise machine to mask outside noises. I like a radio on a talk station or classical as background noise before and during a trip. part of early puppy training here is fire crackers on the deck by 6 weeks old. acclimatizing your dog to odd noises young helps later with fireworks - thunder storms - backfires - etc. When you need to leave your dog alone, take them on a walk first to release any pent-up energy and tire them out, and leave plenty of toys to keep them from barking out of boredom. If that doesn’t curb out-of-control barking, try an anti-barking device - there are many good options out there. A good selection of decent brands and styles available at gundogsupply.com - note we have tested a number the cheap ones available at places like ebay and amazon and can say buyer beware or the 'inexpensive' think cheap in both meanings of the word.
Bring the Right Gear
Besides your pet’s food, fresh water, bowls, leash and collar ( please see my notes on collars ), grooming supplies, and all the comforts and necessities of daily life. keep in mind the water your dog is accustomed to. bottled water is neutral and available anywhere while well or 'city' water is different or may contain things like chlorine or fluoride your dog is not used to.
think about activities you’ll want to engage in with your dog and pack accordingly. Here are some items you might want to bring along as your lifestyle or plans dictate.
Safety harness with a handle. be sure it is well attached taking your dogs weight into account.
Light that attaches to a leash or collar or vest - I have them on both sides of my service dogs vest. we also have collars that light all the way around and can be set to flash or just be on. same option applies to leashes.
Dog life vest - look at styles as I see some of the newer ones take into account your dog could be knocked out the same as you could in a boating accident or get very tired swimming. a 'flap' or neck 'ring' to support the head.
Water toys
Booties to protect paws in snow and ice ( think about ice melting chemicals also ) or on hot or rocky surfaces. be very aware that asphalt is HOT in the sun. you can figure that one out standing still a few minutes and feeling it though your shoes. think how it must be on 'bare' feet.
Dog sunscreen for nose, ears, and other exposed areas
Pet-friendly mosquito and tick repellent
Collapsible food and water dishes for your backpack if that is your style of camping.
Sun goggles to protect your pet’s eyes if your dog tolerates them - again something to try and get his used to ahead of the need.
Old beach towels for drying your pup off, mopping up messes or providing a surface to lie on shade umbrella
Folding or collapsible play pen for small dogs
Sweater or jacket for cold climates
hotels
- Many hotels accept pets as a chain. Red roof is one - as policies can change I suggest a quick search on traveling with pets for pet friendly hotels. Not endorsing but as of December 2016 I found these quickly
http://www.officialpethotels.com/?refid=1385&refclickid=1385~G~E~pet-friendly-hotels&gclid=CMy-3tjo5tACFQ-NaQod2tID4A#axzz4SKfEcCOe
https://www.bringfido.com/lodging/
campgrounds -
Most all accept pets. our experience camping has been no extra fee. you will be expected to clean up after your dog and not allow it to be a nuisance to other campers. {simply put - proper etiquette for the dog owner}
Some state parks want to limit the number of dogs you bring to their campground. Same with some national parks. Check the rules for each place you intend to stay or check for a state by state listing of the rules if you are not sure . We have a large camper and have taken some of the 'kids' with us to shows / festivals/ etc.
For in the camper you have to decide what you want. We have a few crates that stack to keep the younger 'kids' contained and out of trouble. The grown dogs take over the couch or the bed or whatever they feel like plopping themselves down. I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking. the same food for the same reasons. you can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc for your needs.
tents vs campers
It has been a few years since we tent camped but a couple comments. A crate for your dog or pups since a tent wall is not a proper barrier for an untrained pup. Our adults are happy enough with their own bedding and trusted in the tent with us. I would never leave a dog unattended in a tent for safety sake.
In warm weather - your dog gets hot same as you. Selecting a shady spot and a small fan can help. For non electric camping I have a foldout battery fan. Solar rechargeable options exist. I mention these so you know the exist to do your own research
In cold weather. of more importance to small dogs and young pups. warmth is critical. going beyond the little doggie coats which can help them keep warm the same as you wear a jacket. products for cold weather camping exist. We used to have a catalytic heater - a little pricey but safe. Mr Heater as a brand has a range of sizes starting with a nice small heater that goes on the quart size propane bottle. ( please research heaters to fit your needs - some small ones can be hung in the tent. Others have nice bases to make them stable. Pups should be crated to ensure they don't knock over a heater )
again not an endorsement although we do have one similar. info provided as thought provoking. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DD6C4MY/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
for camping with access to electric it gets cheaper and simpler -a small ceramic heater can be a nice option.
If you are fine in your sleeping bag without additional 'area' heat but are traveling with a small pup - a normal heating pad ( Be sure it is not one that has a short timer but one that stays on - I would check to see what level warms the crate interior but will suggest medium to not over heat the pup or burn out the pad if under the crate) under the pups crate can provide enough warmth. cover the crate with a blanket - consider one of the Mylar blankets underneath as ground radiant barrier. Mylar blankets are good under your sleeping bags and a must for a winter travel emergency in the car. You can get the pocket version inexpensively and they are extremely lightweight yet their apparent flimsiness belies their effectiveness. Except for a hiking lightweight pack prefer the heavier version ( I like ours = this blanket - https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-Outdoors-Original-Weather-Blanket/dp/B002CQUA28/ref=sr_1_7_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281087&sr=1-7&keywords=mylar+blanketDO ) we keep a couple in the car for winter emergencies. ( I recommend a winter emergency travel pack in your car - you can research appropriate things for your climate. Please consider your dog in your packing items )
Do NOT encase the crate with a non breathable blanket like the Mylar. over the sides and back - ok. a normal blanket over the front ( large towel works )
Hiking
Depending on your situation - such as backpacking. Products like collapsible food and water bowls or even fabric bowls exist for space and weight. Pups can't be expected to hike a long distance like an adult dog can. consider a back / front pack for you to wear for your small dog or pup. Same rules apply to your dog as would a child. Don't set out on a 50 mile hike without being sure your dog is in physical shape for it
NOT endorsing and I have never used one but have seen similar in use... providing a link to stimulate your search ideas
https://www.amazon.com/Pettom-Carrier-Soft-sided-Outdoor-Backpack/dp/B01CFKO774/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481278310&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=dog+backpack+carrier&psc=1
taking this one step further - consider the weather and pups comfort. in cold weather consider the hand / foot heaters such as hot hands - some are good for up to 10 hours and do not give off fumes. a nice heater for your pocket that is reuse-able runs on butane. not a brand endorsement but for your edification https://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Warmer-Polish-Chrome-Lighter/dp/B000KGET4C/ref=sr_1_sc_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281479&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=butant+hand+heat- Emergency planning
- Please plan ahead to care for your dogs in natural disasters. Leaving this plan posted where another person can find it if needed. not that you need another thing stuck on the refrigerator but...
Individual dog owners can be disabled by accidents or illness; therefore, owners are urged to advise neighbors, family, and friends about how to care for their dogs in emergency situations. we've always suggested a "Godparent'' for your dogs, preferably not a close relative as a family emergency could involve everyone rushing to the family need or heaven forbid funeral. Perhaps someone you can exchange pet sitting duties with that your dog will know beforehand. Certain times of the year a spot in a boarding just will not be available on a last minute notice.
Create an Emergency Evacuation Plan for You and Your Dog
Tornadoes, earthquakes, floods – emergencies strike out of the blue. Evacuating your home is often necessary for safety reasons. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog behind in the danger zone. But emergencies can be highly stressful, and without careful planning, you may find yourself in a panic with no clue about what to do. Creating an emergency evacuation plan will help you handle any unexpected disaster calmly and safely. Pet disaster preparedness means incorporating your dog and other pets into your evacuation plan so you’re prepared to meet their needs and keep them free from harm.
Understand the Pets Act
You have a legal right to include your pets in an evacuation thanks to the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act (also known as the Pets Act), a bipartisan initiative that resulted in significant changes to federal and state emergency planning laws after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. The Pets Act requires states seeking assistance from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to accommodate service animals and pets in their evacuation plans in the case of a disaster. As a result, there are now many federal and state laws that include specifications for the evacuation, rescue, and recovery of animals as well as provisions for sheltering, identification, and tracking.
Create Your Own Emergency Evacuation Plan
Although over 30 states have laws addressing animals in evacuation planning, you can’t skip developing your own household evacuation plans. Follow the instructions of local authorities in the moment but be prepared with what you need and where to go. You should be able to leave your home at a moment’s notice with your family and pets accounted for. Being prepared will help you think clearly and keep you calm during a crisis. This is important because your dog can sense your emotions. If you panic, it will agitate your dog. Therefore, pet disaster preparedness will not only reduce your anxiety but will help reduce your pet’s anxiety too.
It’s not enough to leave dogs in a safe place to fend for themselves during an emergency. They can get lost, injured, or worse. Evacuating together can save your dog’s life. Otherwise, you put yourself and first responders in danger as attempts are made to save your pet.
Remember that you might not be home when disaster strikes. Plan for being away from your pets and/or being unable to get to them. Consider making arrangements with someone who can get to your dog when you can’t like a neighbor, dog walker, pet sitter, or local doggy daycare. And place a rescue alert sticker at your front door to let people know there are pets inside your house. Be sure it includes the types and number of pets you own as well as your veterinarian’s phone number. If you are able to take your pets with you during an evacuation, please write “Evacuated” across the sticker if time allows so rescue workers don’t waste precious time at your home.
Prepare Your Dog for Disaster
Make sure your dog is ready for anything. First, keep your dog’s vaccinations up to date in case your dog must stay at a shelter during an evacuation. Second, microchip your dog. A microchip allows veterinarians and shelter workers to scan your pet and access your contact information. It could be essential to being reunited with your dog if you get separated. Keep your dog’s microchip registration up to date with your most recent phone number and address. But don’t forget the low-tech option too. Your dog should be wearing a collar with up-to-date identification tags. Finally, have copies of all your dog’s important documents. Consider including:
vaccination certificates and most recent heartworm test results.
information about any health concerns, medications, or behavior problems.
contact information for your veterinarian.
identification information including proof of ownership and a current photo of you with your dog in case your dog gets lost.
You also need to have your dog’s travel equipment at hand, preferably in an uncluttered area near your door. You should have a leash ready to go as well as equipment for safe car travel such as a harness and pet seat belt strap. Also consider buying a pet carrier for each of your dogs. You can use the carrier for transport but also as a safe place for your dog to rest during stops or at your final destination. Make sure to write your dog’s name and your contact information on the carrier. Ensure your dog is comfortable in the carrier ahead of time by feeding treats and meals in the carrier and taking practice drives.
Assemble a Go Bag for Your Dog - aka bugout bag in prepper-speak.
A pet disaster preparedness kit should include everything your dog will need in an emergency evacuation. Consider your dog’s basic needs, safety, and any medical issues. Keep it in an easy-to-carry waterproof container and store it where you can easily get to it. Your dog’s go-bag should include items such as:
bottled drinking water (during an emergency, tap water can be contaminated).
food in waterproof containers or cans. (Choose pop-top tins or pack a can opener.) Bring enough for at least two weeks.
food and water bowls.
prescription medications and other required health supplies such as tick medication and heartworm preventative.
a dog first aid kit.
poop bags and other clean-up supplies.
familiar items like toys, bedding, and blankets to comfort your dog.
stress-relieving items like an anxiety vest or calming sprays if your dog is prone to anxiety.
Dog breeding - stud service and a little on estrus cycle in your girl please see our stud service page
Buying your pup and how payments work please see my buying your pup page
Loss of your best friend and adding a new pup
I miss dogs gone 50 + years - even though it is a fact of life I still can't help shedding a tear at times. Some folks want to wait until the old dogs has passed to bring a new pup in. I can understand and you know your dog best. However, many many times when folk have brought in the new pup anyway the pup can learn many things from the 'boss' and the the 'boss' may 'enjoy' the company and opportunity to 'teach' the new pup with maybe a little rebound in liveliness.
Fruit and vegetable safety for dogs
I admit this is copied I've added it just to provide some potentially important info:
Fruits & Vegetables
Apples – Yes. Apples are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, as well as fiber for your dog. They are low in protein and fat, making them the perfect snack for senior dogs. Just be sure to remove the seeds and core first. Try them frozen for an icy warm weather snack. Read More >
Bananas – Yes. In moderation, bananas are a great low-calorie treat for dogs. They’re high in potassium, vitamins, biotin, fiber, and copper. They are low in cholesterol and sodium, but because of their high sugar content, bananas should be given as a treat, not part of your dog’s regular diet.
Watermelon – Yes. It’s important to remove the rind and seeds first, as they can cause intestinal blockage, but watermelon is otherwise safe for dogs. It’s full of vitamin A, B-6, and C, as well as potassium. Watermelon is 92 percent water, so it’s a great way to keep your dog hydrated on hot summer days. Read more >
Grapes – No. Grapes and raisins have proved to be very toxic for dogs no matter the dog’s breed, sex, or age. In fact, grapes are so toxic that they can lead to acute sudden kidney failure. Definitely skip this dangerous treat. Read More >
Strawberries – Yes. Strawberries are full of fiber and vitamin C. Along with that, they also contain an enzyme that can help whiten your dog’s teeth as he or she eats them. They are high in sugar though, so be sure to give them in moderation. Read More >
Oranges – Yes. Small dogs can have up to 1/3 of a full-size orange, while large dogs can eat the whole thing. While the peel isn’t toxic to them, vets recommend tossing the peel and just giving your dog the inside of the orange, minus the seeds, as the peel is much more rough on their digestive systems than the fleshy inside of the orange.
Blueberries – Yes. Blueberries are a superfood rich in antioxidants, which prevent cell damage in humans and canines alike. They’re packed with fiber and phytochemicals as well. Teaching your dog to catch treats in the air? Try blueberries as an alternative to store-bought treats. Read More >
Carrots – Yes. Carrots are an excellent low-calorie snack that is high in fiber and beta-carotene, which produces vitamin A. Plus, crunching on the orange snacks is great for your dog’s teeth. Read More >
Tomatoes – No. While the ripened fruit of the tomato plant (the red part humans normally eat) is generally considered safe for dogs, the green parts of the plant contain a toxic substance called solanine. While a dog would need to eat a large amount for it to make him or her sick, it’s better to skip tomatoes all together just to be safe. Read More >
Pineapple – Yes. A few chunks of pineapple is a great sweet treat for dogs as long as the prickly outside is removed first. The tropical fruit is full of vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains bromelain, an enzyme that makes it easier for dogs to absorb proteins. Read More >
Avocado – No. While avocado may be a healthy snack for dog owners, it should not be given to dogs at all. The pit, skin and leaves of avocados contain Persin, a toxin that often causes vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. The fleshy inside of the fruit doesn’t have as much Persin as the rest of the plant, but it is still too much for dogs to handle.
Broccoli – Yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to eat in very small quantities and is best served as an occasional treat. It is high in fiber and vitamin C and low in fat. On the surface, this makes it an appealing choice for dog owners looking for a healthy dog treat, but broccoli also contains a potentially harmful ingredient. Broccoli florets contain isothiocyanates, which can cause mild-to-potentially-severe gastric irritation in some dogs. Also, broccoli stalks have been known to cause obstruction in the esophagus.
Mushrooms – No. Wild mushrooms can be toxic for dogs. While only 50 to 100 of the 50,000 mushroom species worldwide are known to be toxic, the ones that are can really hurt your dog or even lead to death. Washed mushrooms from the supermarket could be OK, but it’s better to be safe than sorry; skip out on the fungi all together.
Cucumbers – Yes. Cucumbers are especially good for overweight dogs, as they hold little to no carbohydrates, fats, or oils and can even boost energy levels. They’re loaded with vitamins K, C, and B1, as well as potassium, copper, magnesium, and biotin.
Celery – Yes. In addition to vitamins A, B, and C, this crunchy green snack contains the nutrients needed to promote a healthy heart and even fight cancer. As if that wasn’t enough, celery also known to freshen doggy breath.
Onions – No. Onions, leeks, and chives are part of a family of plants called Allium that is poisonous to most pets, especially cats. Eating onions can cause your dog’s red blood cells to rupture, and can also cause vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, and nausea. Poisoning onions is more serious in Japanese breeds of dogs such as Akitas and Shiba Inus, but all dogs are very susceptible to it.
Pears – Yes. Pears are a great snack because they’re high in copper, vitamins C and K, and fiber. It’s been suggested that eating the fruit can reduce the risk of having a stroke by 50 percent. Just be sure to cut pears into bite-size chunks and remove the pit and seeds first, as the seeds contain traces of cyanide.
Potatoes – Yes. It’s fine to give your dog plain potatoes every once and a while, but only if they’re cooked, as raw potatoes can be rough on the stomach. A washed, peeled, plain boiled, or baked potato contains lots of iron for your pet. Avoid mashed potatoes because they often contain butter, milk, or seasonings.
Cherries – No. With the exception of the fleshy part around the seed, cherry plants contain cyanide and are toxic to dogs. Cyanide disrupts cellular oxygen transport, which means that your dog’s blood cells can’t get enough oxygen. If your dog eats cherries, be on the lookout for dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums, as these may be signs of cyanide poisoning.
Peaches – Yes. Small amounts of cut-up peaches are a great source of fiber and vitamin A, and can even help fight infections, but just like cherries, the pit does contain cyanide. As long as you completely cut around the pit first, fresh peaches can be a great summer treat – just not canned peaches, as they usually contain high amounts of sugary syrups.
Asparagus – No. While asparagus isn’t necessarily unsafe for dogs, there’s really no point in giving it to them. It’s too tough to be eaten raw, and by the time you cook it down so it’s soft enough for dogs to eat, asparagus loses the nutrients it contains. If you’re determined to give your dogs vegetables, go for something that will actually benefit them.
Sweet potatoes – Yes. Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrients, including fiber, beta carotene, and vitamins B-6 and C. Just like with regular potatoes, only give your dog washed, peeled, cooked, and unseasoned sweet potatoes that have cooled down, and definitely avoid sugary sweet potato pies and casseroles.
Raspberries – Yes. Raspberries are fine in moderation. They contain antioxidants that are great for dogs. They’re low in sugar and calories, but high in fiber, manganese, and vitamin C. Raspberries are especially good for senior dogs because they have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help take pain and pressure from joints. However, they do contain slight amounts of the toxin Xylitol, so limit your dog to less than a cup of raspberries at a time.
Mango – Yes. This sweet summer treat is packed with four, yes four different vitamins: vitamins A, B6, C, and E. They also have potassium and both beta-carotene and alpha carotene. Just remember, as with most fruits, to remove the hard pit first, as it contains small amounts of cyanide and can become a choking hazard.
Glucosamine & Tumeric for your older dog and you....
Like people, many dogs suffer from arthritis, especially as they age. This painful condition occurs when cartilage, the cushioning between the bones, begins to thin and wear away and the ends of the bones start to rub against each other. It may be caused by trauma, disease, or wear and tear that comes with use over years.
While there is no cure for arthritis, some treatments can lessen pain and improve mobility
No one knows exactly what the mechanism of action is, but the supplement, an amino sugar, appears to improve the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, one of the building blocks of cartilage. This is the tough connective tissue that cushions bones at the joints. The theory is that the supplement somehow stimulates chondrocytes or DNA activity that protects against joint degradation.
cartilage consists of several different cells, one of which is chondrocytes. Chondrocytes are responsible for synthesizing new cartilage. Through normal wear, cartilage is constantly being broken down and replaced. When a dog has hip dysplasia or ages, the chondrocytes do not have the building blocks available to them to build enough new cartilage to keep up with the breakdown of the old cartilage. Glucosamine provides the building blocks to synthesize new cartilage. Glucosamine is the building block necessary for the production of the substances called glycosaminoglycans. The glycosaminoglycans are combined with hyaluronic acid to make the substance proteoglycans. The proteoglycans and collagen are the main structures of cartilage.
Chondroitin blocks destructive enzymes that break down cartilage in the joint.
Chondroitin also is one of the products necessary for the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans. But it probably plays a more important role by combating and neutralizing destructive enzymes in the joint. There is always a low level of destructive enzymes found in the joint, but when injury or abnormal wear occurs, the destructive enzymes and agents increase accelerating cartilage destruction. When chondroitin is added to the diet it helps to reduce the level of these destructive enzymes.Glucosamine supplements are said to alleviate the symptoms of joint damage by boosting the repair of damaged cartilage, the moist, spongy material that forms a cushion between joints. Cartilage cells are constantly turning over, and when cartilage is damaged, the joint becomes inflamed and releases enzymes that cause more damage. This starts a cycle of joint degeneration.
The supplement has been used in veterinary practices in Europe and the U.S. for about 20 years.
Pharmaceutical grade glucosamine and chondroitin are used for humans and are found in some veterinary products. It is perfectly safe to use human glucosamine in your pet, however, products made for animals contain ascorbic acid (vitamin c) to help in the uptake, in canines. ( we just add a vitamin c tablet to the daily pill(s) and 'cookie' for being good and 'taking your pill' ) {I give an all in one glucosamine chondroitin msm turmeric and add the 'c' as a separate pill for our older 'kids' and us older featherless bipeds}
Turmeric in conjunction with glucosamine can help in reducing joint pain effectively. Whether you use the capsule form or powder in your dogs food adding 1/8 tsp. fresh pepper to one teaspoon of turmeric has a synergistic effect (makes the turmeric more effective). check on line for dosages ( disclaimer being I am not a practicing veterinarian)
A short simple site with information - of course they want you to buy their turmeric... nuff said. https://yourolddog.com/benefits-turmeric-dogs/
In 2007, scientists at the College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Georgia, Athens, conducted a similar review of 16 clinical trials of treatments for osteoarthritis in dogs. There were 16 studies that looked at drugs, as well as supplements. They reported their results in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association and found that preparations containing glucosamine provided a "moderate level" of comfort and was on a par with some prescription drugs.
since it is a sugar-based substance, some veterinarians are wary about its use in dogs with diabetes.
Glucosamine and chondroitin are also included in dog foods formulated for senior and performance dogs, many of whom are at risk for joint disease and injury.
It may take weeks to see improvement, and veterinarians recommend evaluating the effects of the treatment after your dog has been taking it for about three months.
Increase in DCM in dogs may be linked to diet - excerpt. - Grain free feeds being investigated
- adding this mostly since DCM is a concern in the dobermann
- FDA investigating connection between canine heart disease and pet food ingredients
Instances of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) may be correlated to specific ingredients in pet foods, says the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
The agency is warning veterinary professionals about occurrences of the disease in dogs consuming foods containing peas, lentils, other legume seeds, or potatoes as main ingredients. The FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) and the Veterinary Laboratory Investigation and Response Network (Vet-LIRN), a collaboration of government and veterinary diagnostic laboratories, are investigating this potential association.
https://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/increase-in-dcm-in-dogs-may-be-linked-to-diet/ - “The FDA is investigating a potential dietary link between canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) and dogs eating certain grain-free pet foods. The foods of concern are those containing legumes such as peas or lentils, other legume seeds, or potatoes listed as primary ingredients. The FDA began investigating this matter after it received a number of reports of DCM in dogs that had been eating these diets for a period of months to years. DCM itself is not considered rare in dogs, but these reports are unusual because the disease occurred in breeds of dogs not typically prone to the disease.”
After the advisory, 149 new cases of DCM were reported to the FDA.
What is Dilated Cardiomyopathy?
Dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) is a type of canine heart disease that affects the heart muscle. The hearts of dogs with DCM have a decreased ability to pump blood, which often results in congestive heart failure.
Some breeds, especially large and giant breeds, have a predisposition to DCM. These breeds include Doberman Pinschers, Great Danes, Newfoundlands, Irish Wolfhounds, and Saint Bernards. While DCM is less common in medium and small breeds, English and American Cocker Spaniels are also predisposed to this condition.
When early reports from the veterinary cardiology community indicated that recent, atypical cases in breeds like Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Whippets, Bulldogs, and Shih Tzus all consistently ate grain alternatives in their diets, the FDA took notice.
Should you be Concerned About Grain-Free Diets?
According to Dr. Klein, “At this time, there is no proof that these ingredients are the cause of DCM in a broader range of dogs, but dog owners should be aware of this alert from the FDA. The FDA continues to work with veterinary cardiologists and veterinary nutritionists to better understand the effect, if any, of grain-free diets on dogs.”
In the Dec. 1 2018 version of the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Lisa M. Freeman, DVM, PhD, DACVN, provided an update to the research on DCM and emphasized the issue is not just grain-free diets. She calls the suspected diets “BEG” diets (boutique companies, exotic ingredients, or grain-free diets).
“The apparent link between BEG diets and DCM may be due to ingredients used to replace grains in grain-free diets, such as lentils or chickpeas, but also may be due to other common ingredients commonly found in BEG diets, such as exotic meats, vegetables, and fruits,” Freeman wrote.
Warranty
note on warranty medications - we routinely send home the next round of de-wormer / bacterial parasite control medications to help ensure your pup stays healthy. change of environment stress such as change of water / food / surroundings can allow any parasites present to have a greater impact on your pup. we start treating pups at 3 weeks old and every couple weeks until they go home. pups get parasites as part of being a dog and it is something you will need to address as treatment and or prevention for your dogs life. we've heard of people disregarding any further vaccinations or parasite control as they say their pup had that before they got him/her and that was it. parasite control and vaccinations are something that need to be addressed as a lifetime commitment for the healthy life of your pet.
PUPPY WARRANTY
Buyer has been advised of any pertinent medical history and current status of immunity.
Your puppy has a 72-hour warranty against infectious communicable diseases and as such buyer is urged to have their pup checked by a licensed veterinarian within 72 hours from the time date buyer takes possession of pup. Parasites are excluded from the warranty. While we do routinely check and treat as needed worms and protozoan may be common in the course of a pup’s life. In the event puppy is found to be sufficiently medically unsound as to warrant return, the buyer shall immediately notify the seller. Should a warranty claim ever be made a written statement (legible) of all findings and records on pup since leaving breeder shall be sent directly from the examining vet. In the unlikely event a pup were to die - laboratory confirmation of cause of death or a necropsy will be required. It is the buyer’s monetary responsibility to return said pup to seller. Puppy will be replaced with a like puppy as soon as one becomes available. Your pup is further warranted against life threatening congenital defects until a year old. In no case shall refund and /or compensation exceed price of pup. Abuse or accident voids warranty. It is clearly understood that the seller shall NOT assume liability for any veterinary expenses incurred by the buyer unless through prior arrangements.
Sale is to be considered initiated and finalized in Cumberland County Tennessee. This warranty is accepted as sole recourse.
D.O.B._______________ sex___ color__________________________
Price __________ date _________________ litter#________________
vaccinations ______________________________________________
Next vaccination due ___________________wormed_______________
Medications sent home _______________________________________
________________________________________________________
Buyer___________________________________________________
Address__________________________________________________
E-mail__________________________ phone ___________________
Seller ___________________ buyer____________________________
signs of Cancer in dogs
The National Cancer Institute’s Center for Cancer Research reports around six million dogs in the U.S. are diagnosed with spontaneous cancer every year. While better understanding of canine nutrition and advanced veterinary technology is prolonging the average dog’s lifespan, the risk of developing cancer increases as dogs age. Recent reports indicate about half of dogs over 10 years old are diagnosed with some type of cancer.1 We must take it upon ourselves as concerned pet parents to know the warning signs of canine cancer.
Dogs get cancer at around the same rate humans do, but the disease tends to progress faster for our canine friends. The key to fighting it has always been early detection. Without the ability to voice their feelings, dogs often go undiagnosed. Sometimes their disease shows no symptoms until it’s too late for medical intervention to help. In many cases, however, an observant owner can save their dog’s life.
Regardless of your dog’s age, breed, or perceived health, it’s important to know about these common signs of cancer.
#1 – Unidentifiable Lumps
One of the easiest cancer symptoms to recognize is the presence of a tumor growing beneath the skin. Sometimes lumps are benign cysts, but an unusual growth always warrants a trip to the veterinarian. The lump needs to be removed and tested for the presence of cancer.
Just as there are several different kinds of cancer, there are several kinds of cancerous tumors. Mast cell tumors grow quickly and tend to itch and look inflamed. Snub-nosed dog breeds like Boxers and French Bulldogs develop this type of tumor more than other breeds. Other types of tumors include histiocytoma tumors that are typically small and hairless, and tumors related to lymphoma are characterized by lymph node swelling under the jaw and behind the knees.6
Veterinarians encourage dog owners to inspect their pets’ skin at least once a month. Tumors can be large, but a small lump the size of a breath mint can be equally as dangerous.
#2 – Sudden Weight Loss
As long as the dog isn’t on a strict diet, their weight should remain relatively steady. Noticing weight loss is easiest in small dogs that are picked up often and dogs with short hair. A good way to quickly judge a dog’s weight is to look at them from above to see if their waistline looks more defined than it used to be. You can also palpate their sides regularly to feel how close their ribs are to their skin.
It’s harder to judge weight loss in big dogs with lots of fur. A 70-pound rough Collie with progressing cancer could be losing weight, but their fur and the lack of a convenient scale could mean the symptom goes unnoticed. For these dogs, it’s important to either bring them to the vet regularly for check ups or devise a method of checking their weight at home.
#3 – Lack of Appetite
Sometimes dogs push away their dinner when they have an upset stomach, and they’re usually back to eating within a day. Dogs that don’t act hungry for more than two days at a time, however, could be dealing with something more serious.
A tumor pressing against the intestines is a common reason why dogs stop eating. Food going through a cramped intestine is uncomfortable, and the dog quickly decides not eating is the way to make themselves feel better.5 If it’s cancer, regaining appetite is essential for recovery. Cancer will drain the body’s energy and make it harder for the immune system to fight back. Nutrients derived from food will be essential to keep up the dog’s strength.
#4 – Stiffness or Lameness
It’s normal for senior dogs to slow down, and trouble standing up, walking, or climbing stairs could be due to osteoarthritis. There’s also a chance painful movements are caused by bone cancer called osteosarcoma.
Osteosarcoma is a tumor that develops on the bone. It can affect any bone in the body but is most often found near the shoulders and knees. In the beginning stages, the tumor may not be noticeable by looking at the dog. It will, however, affect how they move. Canine Cancer explains,
“Osteosarcoma develops deep within the bone and becomes progressively more painful as it grows outward and the bone is destroyed from the inside out. Lameness may occur suddenly or start intermittently and progress over several weeks. Obvious swelling becomes evident as the tumor grows and normal bone is replaced by tumorous bone.”
#5 – Lethargy
It’s normal for a dog to spend a few hours a day snoozing. Most dogs sleep between 12 and 14 hours a day.3 That number will ultimately depend on your dog’s age, breed, and personality, but too much sleep or a sudden decrease in activity could be a sign of cancer.
The main difference between normal exhaustion and lethargy has to do with the dog’s enthusiasm level. A dog that’s simply tired will drag themselves off the couch with a wagging tail for the chance at food or to play their favorite game. A lethargic dog, however, will lose all interest in their favorite things. Their reactions to things that would normally excite them are either delayed, strained, or they don’t react at al
#6 – Open Sores That Don’t Heal
A sore on the dog’s skin that lasts for months without healing needs to be seen by a veterinarian. The wound can be crusty and bleed randomly when irritated. Antibiotics and topical creams won’t help it go away, and it can be located in any area of the dog’s body including toes, scrotum, and nose.
Scottish Terriers, Boxers, Poodles, Dalmatians, Beagles, and Whippets are considered high risk for this type of cancer, and dogs with white fur and light-colored skin are also more at risk.8
“A squamous cell carcinoma is a type of cancer that originates in the squamous epithelium. It may appear to be a white skin mass, or a raised bump on the skin. Often the raised mass will necrotize in the center and ulcerate, with occasional bleeding.”
#7 – Changes in Bathroom Habits
Going to the bathroom more than normal, less than normal, and not at all are all signs of trouble. In most cases, urination problems relate to conditions affecting the kidneys, bladder, or urethra. Cancer in the rectum, anus, colon, and intestines often causes constipation, diarrhea, and other changes in the dog’s stool. It’s possible for a dog to be defecating normally but stop urinating, and vice versa.5
If you notice your dog seems strained or in pain while doing their business, there could be a tumor causing problems somewhere in the digestive tract. It’s also important to inspect a dog’s feces on a regular basis. Stool that is black, tarry, or has blood in it could be a symptom of cancer.
#8 – Breathing Difficulties
There are several different types of cancer that affect the respiratory system. Lung cancer most often develops in dogs 10 years and older, but all dogs are susceptible to having malignant tumors in their lungs and other parts of the respiratory tract. Symptoms usually present as labored breathing and shortness of breath.7
The dog might also develop a persistent cough, and their normal breathing can sound wheezy. You might notice your usually athletic dog gets winded after only a few minutes of jogging. Dogs that exhibit abnormal panting might also have cancer affecting their respiratory system. PetMD advises,
“Owners should get a feel for what is normal for their dogs before any health problems develop. How does your dog breathe when he is at rest? While going for a walk? After vigorous play? With this knowledge in hand, you will be able to pick up subtle changes in your dog’s respiratory rate and effort before a crisis develops.”
#9 – Unusual Smell
Gas and bad breath are usually harmless, but exceedingly bad smells coming from the dog’s mouth or anus could mean something more. Tumors in the anus, mouth, or throat open a window for bacterial growth and can produce smells. Some dog owners assume their pets are especially gassy, but there’s the possibility the bad smells originate from a tumor in the rectum.
Oral cancer is difficult to treat and progresses quickly. Tumors are most often found on the roof of the mouth and around the upper teeth.4 You might also notice your dog eating their food without chewing or only chewing on one side of their mouth to avoid a tender area.
#10- Behavioral Changes
A dog’s behavior is a clear indication of how they’re feeling. If your gentle, happy dog is suddenly acting aggressively, it could be because they’re in pain. When dogs don’t feel well, they tend to withdraw. Being jostled and touched in sore areas can cause them more pain, and they lash out to keep people away.
A dog that used to love being picked up or having their stomach rubbed might start avoiding human contact. It’s easy to take their behavior personally, but it’s their way of telling you something isn’t right. Internal tumors can go unnoticed for months, and the longer they’re left to grow, the more damage they cause. A slight change in a dog’s behavior is often the only external indication that cancer is wreaking havoc on the dog’s health.
Sources
1. AVMA
2. Canine Cancer
3. The National Sleep Foundation
4. My Pet’s Dentist: Oral Tumors in Cats and Dogs
5. Pet Health Network: 10 Signs of Cancer in Dogs
6. PetMD: 8 Types of Tumors and How to Treat Them
7. PetMD: Breathing Difficulties in Dogs
8. PetMD: Skin Cancer in Dogs
9. The National Cancer Institute’s Center for Cancer Research
Written by Amber King- A little history
posted 8/13/19
pig ear treats linked to salmonellosis in humans
The FDA and CDC are warning veterinarians and pet owners across 33 states to dispose of all pig ear treats, saying they are the suspected cause of 127 cases of salmonellosis in humans. Twenty-six people have been hospitalized so far
pig ear treats linked to salmonellosis in humans
The FDA and CDC are warning veterinarians and pet owners across 33 states to dispose of all pig ear treats, saying they are the suspected cause of 127 cases of salmonellosis in humans. Twenty-six people have been hospitalized so far